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I took carb rack off for cleaning--removed main and slow jets to clean out and may have mixed them up? Looking at them --the only difference noticed was the holes on the main jets were in diff location--what kind of problem could this mixup cause if any?? Can you tell me the difference between the front and rear main jets so I can put them in the proper way? Example--front main jets have x amount of holes and rear have x amount--or different size or something--my book just says do not mix up--do one carb at a time (read this too late) the slow jets looked the same so put them all in a tea ball for cleaning. Boiled everything in water-lemon juice mix for 30 min. front carbs are down draft--rear are side draft. Don't know what this means?? Never removed carbs from rack so at least they are not in wrong place


Thank you for your time.

Looks like you're in luck!

According to the parts diagram right here, your carbs all use the same jets.

On the side of the jet, you should see a number. If the numbers are any different, then report back and we'll figure out which go where. Sound good to you?

Wrider wrote:Looks like you're in luck!

According to the parts diagram right here, your carbs all use the same jets.

On the side of the jet, you should see a number. If the numbers are any different, then report back and we'll figure out which go where. Sound good to you?

Yes they are the same

I would like to ask you another question--one of my sliders (diaph) has a couple of small holes in it and as you must know they are not only hard to find but mucho $$--I found one--used in good shape on e-bay for less than $50--I asked the seller if it would fit my honda vf500c magna v50 and he said he was not sure--to check with the honda dealer--I am afraid the part might sell before I can do that--today is sunday and they are closed till monday--the slider is off a 1983 honda vf750c v45 magna 30mm--it looks the same??

Follow that same link I had in my previous post. That'll give you the price of the part you're looking at NOS (new old stock). If it's less than that, you can cross reference the part numbers on that site to make sure they're the same. I don't think they are though, due to the fact that a 750 requires more fuel and air than a 500, so there's a decent chance they upped the size of the carbs between them.

Thanks--the slides are the same size--bought and installed fine---my problem now is flat spotting around 5 to 6 thou rpm's in 3rd & 4th---in lower gears seems to tac up just fine---I suspect float level or sync--have ordered a float guage and am going to sync with vac guage soon. Question--my manuel say's to measure from float arm to gasket surface--other places say measure float bottom to gasket--if from float arm--where on the arm--it goes from tang area out to the float????

You want to use where the manual says.

As for the float arm, ideally you want to measure so that the float is pretty much level. You want to measure it when the float valve is closed, but it is not pushing in the spring on the back end.

Thank you very very much--after a long study of the (drawing not a picture in my manuel Clymer) I see they are measuring from the gasket surface to the bottom of the float--not any where close to the arm itself--the wording in my manuel is all wrong--again CLYMER!!! My floats are all a bit off in the lean direction or shallow bowl which may be causing the out of gas or flat spot at 5 and 6 thou rpm's at higher speed 45mph up---I have an old carb rack I bought on e-bay (with all four carbs) that I can practice bending the tangs--what I am doing is placing a bit under the arms to hold the needle valve off the seat then bending the tangs in the proper direction --this way I don't have to remove the assembly to adjust the tangs.
I will post the results when I am done--after I get the floats adjusted I need to sync--right now I have benched sync with stiff paper sliver I made with a paper cutter--the paper is kind of like butcher's wrap.
My float guage came sat--nice tool bought on amazon.com from boss powersports outlet --the tool is much cheaper than the one you find first--$22.95 and no shipping or handling cost.

Yeah that's why you buy the actual shop manuals for motorcycles. The Clymer motorcycle manuals are next to useless...

Yea--I was tricked when I bought the clymer on line (a cd) add said shop manuel and nothing about it being clymer--Do you have a link to where I can buy an actual shop book?
Thank you for quick reply
I have high hopes for this bike--hondavf500 v30 mag 1984--has only 17,000 and has been in a garage for the past 5 yrs--bought for $800--proud to be pushing 71 and still in good enough shape to ride---later friend--thanks again.

Ah, well unfortunately that age of a manual isn't going to be on a CD, so you'll have to order one from an auction site or something.
There are probably a few scanned in though.

Here's one I found.
http://www.2shared.com/document/_rmFSzU ... 0_CF_.html

There are a few actual shop manuala on eBay but I can't post the links because of the anti-spam filters.

That is very impressive that you're still riding and working on your bike at 71!