painting the frame

[gearbot]

This winter when i have to garage my bike, i'm going to spend the time to restore it until the next season. I was wondering what i should use to paint the frame. It's going to be the usual black but i was wondering what type to use. Thanks.

also, how can i remove surface rust? most of it i can remove just by polishing by hand but there's some other spots i cant remove with elbow grease.

[rapidblue]

the best result will be from powdercoating the frame, looks the best but more money

If you don't want to go that way use some form of acrylic enamel, more durable than base/clear system.

[dr_bar]

Taken from www.soundrider.com

Painting

As you tear down, you may be inclined to start restoring some painted parts. This will mean
either bringing them back to their original paint color, or shooting them with a new tone
especially selected by you and your alliances.

Rattle Can or Pro Shop

Some people choose to paint everything at home, others send it all out to the paint shop. In my
experience, I’ve found you can paint most of the parts at home and get about the same quality
as a pro shop. When it comes to the headlamp housing, side covers, fenders and the tank,
you may opt for the pro shop since those typically require finer finishes and a dust free
environment to achieve the luster of the original surface or better.

But parts like frames, bar mounts, various guards and other mounts can all be shot at home
using acrylic or lacquer paints from your local hardware store.

Be sure if you decide to go with lacquer that every layer you shoot including the primer,
color and clear coat is a lacquer base. Lacquer and Acrylic don’t like each other.

Prepping

Begin with getting your work space ready. Drape drop cloths where needed. Again, be kind
to your neighbors by working far away from parked cars and structures, or else create a four-sided
tent that will help contain the residual spray.

Sand, or at least clean, the part you plan to paint. The use of a wire brush or scotch pad is highly
advised in order to be sure you’ve removed any dirt and rust from the item.

Primer Coats

Begin by shooting on a single coat of primer to the part. Most hardware store bought primers dry
in 30 minutes or less, so once you’ve completed one side and it's dry, flip it and shoot the other.
Then repeat until you’ve shot on a total of two coats.

Final Color

With most parts you’ll be using black or silver paints, but you might choose to do something
crazy like paint your frame purple. Have at it! Hey, it worked for Eric Buell, when Buell
introduced the X1 Lightning, and maybe it will work for you too.

Whatever color you select, shoot at least two coats onto each part. Allow the part to dry the
recommended amount of time the can says before adding the next coat.

Clear Coat

Recently, clear coating has become quite popular. It adds an extra layer of shine and luster to
most things as well as puts an extra layer or two of protection between a hard object and the
part. Frames get hit with rocks all the time, so consider shooting a few layers of clear coat onto
the frame once you’ve put on your final color.

[dr_bar]

Oh yeah, here's a link to a powder coating kit..

http://tinyurl.com/bbaqw

[gearbot]

thanks guys.

as for the tank, covers, headlamp casing, etc. i was just going to have a pro do that anyways. i'd rather pay extra for garunteed results then me saving money and having poop. i figured there's not much to a frame since you only see a percentage of it anyways and doesnt require a glossy finish.

what figures would you guys estimate for a professional powdercoat job? are we talking hundred(s) or thousand(s)? if it's thousand(s), it would be nice but i'm sorta on a budget. also, i'm an hour and a half from the closest possible powder coating shop and at these gas prices it would be pushing it (i get 15mpg with my truck).

that powder coat kit would be nice but i dont want to spend that much on something i would use once. then i would have to spend more money on heat lamps.

so, unless gas prices go down by winter time, i guess i'm stuck with enamel. what brands should i use? i can use either spray cans or buy them by the pint for an air gun.

[old-n-slow]

thanks guys.
i guess i'm stuck with enamel. what brands should i use? i can use either spray cans or buy them by the pint for an air gun.

Nothing wrong with enamel unless it's the stuff in a spray can. Spray cans have so much reducer mixed into the paint to assure good spray that the paint does not nearly match the quality of bulk paint. Enamel is all the manufacturer used when they painted the frame. After all you can always repaint it in a few years if the enamel gets badly chipped from stones.

[horn23]

This conversation is just beyond me so i am out, best of luck.