Skier wrote:
For what it's worth, every bike I've owned doesn't turn the starter if the kill switch is engaged (set to off/stop). But that's only a whopping three bikes.
It does vary. My experience was the same as yours (except with more bikes of 80s vintage). I realized that I'd never actually tried it on the Honda, so I went out to the garage, hit the kill switch and the starter turned the engine over just fine.
Apparently some kill switches are wired to the ingition and starter circuits, while others just ground the ignition.
My kickstand kill switch kills both the starter and ignition, but the bar mounted switch just kills the ignition.
How important is it to disconnect and drain the carbs? I'm probably looking at 5-6 months of storage for my bike.. can't I just put Stabil in the tank and run it for a little while?
Ok, a little late, but the bikes is finally put away. Last things taken care of today was drained carbs, coolant good to go, oiled the cylinders wiped down and lubed parts a light wiping of WD40.
My question on the oil in the cylinders. When we turned it over for a sec or two to coat the walls, the excess oil got squirted out the top. No problem now, just wipe the spray and reinstall the plugs.
My concern is when we go to get the bike started up in the spring. Will there still be an excess of oil? How can I make sure there isn't too much oil in there to be detrimental during startup?
(Since the Vulcan's plugs are recessed into the top of the engine, I used a small cc syringe to reach down and get oil in there)
BuzZz wrote:I don't know about your bike, but any bike I've ever had anything to with would turn over with this switch (commonly called the 'kill switch') in off. All it deos is ground the spark to the plugs.
It is common to see someone trying to start their bike for several minutes, then realize the switch is in the wrong position. Flick it to run, and it runs.... and they ride off sheepishly.
I myself have never done this of course....
not that you'll ever prove, anyways....
For what it's worth, every bike I've owned doesn't turn the starter if the kill switch is engaged (set to off/stop). But that's only a whopping three bikes.
My bike flashes you enough lights, and does NOTHING and tells you to BLODDY WELL "pee" OFF if you don't turn it to the run position.
Hi all, I read through that artical but have a question.
My bike doesn't have an off position on the fuel petcock, so, is it best to still add the fuel stablization to the tank, run it for 10 minutes, and drain the carbs? Keep in mind that I would have to take off the fuel line coming from the tank and plug both holes to prevent fuel from flowing back into the carbs.
Your bike has PRIME/ON/RES so you should leave that on ON. so run the bike for ten minutes or so then shut it off. The gas should not be flowing now. There should be drain plugs on the bottom of your float bowls.
People say I'm stupid and apathetic. I don't know what that means, and I don't care.
Always wear a helmet, eye protection, and protective clothing. Never ride under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
Johnj wrote:Your bike has PRIME/ON/RES so you should leave that on ON. so run the bike for ten minutes or so then shut it off. The gas should not be flowing now. There should be drain plugs on the bottom of your float bowls.
Ok thanks, do you think that i should unplug the fuel line from the tank to the carbs? Wont gravity allow some fuel to feed back into the carbs since it is all down hill? I am storing the bike over a -40C five month praire winter.