help! bike won't start
help! bike won't start
Hi all,
I bought that 2002 sv650 I was talking about it. Haven't even rode it yet (still waiting for license, insurance, and my gear) and I already discovered a problem.
The engine starts fine. However, as soon as I shift it into first gear, it dies! And then the oil light turns on.
I thought that perhaps the clutch is broken, but no. With the engine off, I tried shifting into every gear. When I press the clutch, the bike rolls fine, and when I release it, the rear wheel doesn't roll -- exactly as it should be.
The thing is, I saw the previous owner ride it. But now I'm afraid I got a lemon. Help!
thanks in advance,
Eugene
I bought that 2002 sv650 I was talking about it. Haven't even rode it yet (still waiting for license, insurance, and my gear) and I already discovered a problem.
The engine starts fine. However, as soon as I shift it into first gear, it dies! And then the oil light turns on.
I thought that perhaps the clutch is broken, but no. With the engine off, I tried shifting into every gear. When I press the clutch, the bike rolls fine, and when I release it, the rear wheel doesn't roll -- exactly as it should be.
The thing is, I saw the previous owner ride it. But now I'm afraid I got a lemon. Help!
thanks in advance,
Eugene
-
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- paul246
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No, you don't really have a problem here at all, at least nothing to worry about. What has happened is a common enough event in any mult-disc wet clutch. Over time, with the bike sitting and not being used, the pressure from the clutch spring has squeezed the oil from between the plates and sort of fused it into one solid mass. Put the bike into 2nd gear and walk it around with the clutch lever pulled back toward to handle bar. While pushing the bike around let the clutch lever out rapidly. Yes, the rear wheel will skid for a while, but keep doing this until the clutch begins to free itself up. Even better is to have someone push you around while you are on the bike and keep releasing the lever. This puts more weight on the rear wheel, giving more resistance. After doing this a half dozen times you should be able to engage first gear without the engine stalling, it may still give a "clunk" but will quickly free itself up.
Unless of course you forgot to raise the kickstand first...lol
Unless of course you forgot to raise the kickstand first...lol

Last edited by paul246 on Tue Feb 07, 2006 11:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
There is no such thing as a bad motorcycle.
Honda XR650L Dual-Sport
Honda XR650L Dual-Sport
Yep! That's it. I'm a moron. I guess these bikes are engineered so that you don't shoot yourself in the foot.SuperRookie wrote:You most likely have the kickstand down when you put it in gear and let the clutch out.

But one problem does exist. When I press the rear break, the stop light doesn't turn on. It works with the front brake. The brakes themselves also work. How do I fix it?
thanks,
Eugene
- skoebl
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I asked the same question on this forum when I first got my bike. It's funny how n00bish you can be right when you start out learning something. I still have the habit of not shifting into neutral when I park. So when I put the kickstand down, it kills the engine.SuperRookie wrote:You most likely have the kickstand down when you put it in gear and let the clutch out.
SV650 K6 <---Suuper Awsome bike
[quote="V4underme"]
If I didn't feel like a monkey &*$%ing a football when I sat on a sporty, I'd probably own one.[/quote]
[quote="V4underme"]
If I didn't feel like a monkey &*$%ing a football when I sat on a sporty, I'd probably own one.[/quote]
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Yeah...it's one of those things...engine cutoff...imagine taking off with the sidestand down and going to make a left turn...adios.
I read about it once here on this forum...Then when I got my bike and set about to learn the friction zone, I'm sitting on the bike like...wtf???
Keeps cutting off...and then "DOH!"
I remembered

I read about it once here on this forum...Then when I got my bike and set about to learn the friction zone, I'm sitting on the bike like...wtf???
Keeps cutting off...and then "DOH!"

I remembered

"Not just your 'ordinary' Rookie..."
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There is an electrical switch on the right side of the bike, connected to the brake pedal by a spring. When you apply the rear brake, this spring pulls on the switch and brings the connections inside it together, activating the brake light. Sounds like there isn't enough movement in the switch to activate it, but it can be adjusted - there should be a couple of locknuts on the switch - you will have to turn them so that the spring tension will move the switch enough to turn on the lights.ninja79 wrote:But one problem does exist. When I press the rear break, the stop light doesn't turn on. It works with the front brake. The brakes themselves also work. How do I fix it?
thanks,
Eugene
1983 Suzuki GS650GL (sold)
2005 Kawasaki KLR 650 (sold)
2020 KTM 200 Duke
IBA#20953
IG: @greenmanwc
2005 Kawasaki KLR 650 (sold)
2020 KTM 200 Duke
IBA#20953
IG: @greenmanwc
Paul,
the problem you mentioned with the two cluthes sticking together....
1) Do 2000 ninja 250 have this same clutch design?
2) Mine is freezing like that in the winter is this whats happening/ is there a long term solution? i figured out the whole walking and dropping the clutch thing on my own, but its kinda difficult when its really cold. i know the best solution would be to take the truck, but when you get the itch....
the problem you mentioned with the two cluthes sticking together....
1) Do 2000 ninja 250 have this same clutch design?
2) Mine is freezing like that in the winter is this whats happening/ is there a long term solution? i figured out the whole walking and dropping the clutch thing on my own, but its kinda difficult when its really cold. i know the best solution would be to take the truck, but when you get the itch....
"Life's like an hourglass glued to a table"
Paul,
the problem you mentioned with the two cluthes sticking together....
1) Do 2000 ninja 250 have this same clutch design?
2) Mine is freezing like that in the winter is this whats happening/ is there a long term solution? i figured out the whole walking and dropping the clutch thing on my own, but its kinda difficult when its really cold. i know the best solution would be to take the truck, but when you get the itch....
the problem you mentioned with the two cluthes sticking together....
1) Do 2000 ninja 250 have this same clutch design?
2) Mine is freezing like that in the winter is this whats happening/ is there a long term solution? i figured out the whole walking and dropping the clutch thing on my own, but its kinda difficult when its really cold. i know the best solution would be to take the truck, but when you get the itch....
"Life's like an hourglass glued to a table"
- flynrider
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Ninja 250s have the same wet clutch design. Is it extremely cold where you are? This usually isn't a big problem with motorcycle wet clutches if you are using a good multiweight oil in the winter. If you're using single grade, like SAE 30 or 40, you could have a problem when the temps approach 40 degrees F. A multigrade that starts with 10w or 15w should work fine.snwbrdr wrote:1) Do 2000 ninja 250 have this same clutch design?
2) Mine is freezing like that in the winter is this whats happening/ is there a long term solution? i figured out the whole walking and dropping the clutch thing on my own, but its kinda difficult when its really cold. i know the best solution would be to take the truck, but when you get the itch....
Bikin' John
'93 Honda CB750 Nighthawk
'93 Honda CB750 Nighthawk