Chain, Belt, or Shaft Drive?
Chain, Belt, or Shaft Drive?
Howdy all! First post! I'm coming up on 40 and gas prices have finally made me decide that a motorcycle might just be what I need. Made my first trip into a bike dealer the other day just to see what's out there and what I can expect to pay. Came away with a lot of questions answed and a few more questions to ask.
The salesman I talked to seemed like a nice and helpful sort. First stressed the safety course before making a bike decission, then indicated that I sit on a few bikes to get an idea for size, fit and style. Did say that a 750 was about as high as I might want to go for a beginner bike.
While looking around I found (as I had suspected) that the cruiser style seems to fit me best. I don't bend as well as I did when I was younger and have a little more to lay on, so the upright seating is a plus. As I was looking at bikes I tripped over the Honda Aero. Seems a nice bike and the sales staff indicated that the shaft drive was less of a maintenence issue.
Looking at the HD's and a few other bikes I see some with belts, some with chains, and some with shaft drive. From a user standpoint, is on that big of an issue over the other? How much trouble is the chain to maintain and adjust?... and the belt?
Thanks for your time!
Coffee
The salesman I talked to seemed like a nice and helpful sort. First stressed the safety course before making a bike decission, then indicated that I sit on a few bikes to get an idea for size, fit and style. Did say that a 750 was about as high as I might want to go for a beginner bike.
While looking around I found (as I had suspected) that the cruiser style seems to fit me best. I don't bend as well as I did when I was younger and have a little more to lay on, so the upright seating is a plus. As I was looking at bikes I tripped over the Honda Aero. Seems a nice bike and the sales staff indicated that the shaft drive was less of a maintenence issue.
Looking at the HD's and a few other bikes I see some with belts, some with chains, and some with shaft drive. From a user standpoint, is on that big of an issue over the other? How much trouble is the chain to maintain and adjust?... and the belt?
Thanks for your time!
Coffee
Re: Chain, Belt, or Shaft Drive?
Wow, a dealer actually talking some sense. This is a first lol. Good to hear they're giving some good advice on taking the course before you even make a decision on a bike.Coffee357 wrote:The salesman I talked to seemed like a nice and helpful sort. First stressed the safety course before making a bike decission, then indicated that I sit on a few bikes to get an idea for size, fit and style. Did say that a 750 was about as high as I might want to go for a beginner bike.
As for the different drives, each has its own benefits. A lot of people hate chains because you have to oil them every 600 miles or so. It really isn't that big of a deal though, takes a whole 2 min to clean it and lube it. I sometimes lube mine daily, it really does not require much work. I have no experience with belt drive or shaft drive myself. Both are lower maintenence. The shaft drive is practically zero maintence, and I've heard nice things about them.
With belts and chains, there's always the possibility of it breaking on the road, and your stuck there waiting for a tow. But, that's why you replace it at the recommended mileage.
I'm sure some others can add some more good information on them.
Brian
'03 Suzuki SV1000
'03 Suzuki SV1000
- oldnslo
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If you are planning on using the bike for commuting and occasional recreational use, the forget-about-it qualities of the shaft drive might be best for you. Chains, while the most maintenance-demanding, are popular on more sporting applications, as they are the most positive means of transmitting power with a minimum effect on chassis dynamics. Unless you are considering a high performance machine you plan on screaming around the winding roads on, dragging body parts, it shouldn't be an issue. Belts offer relative maintenance freedom also, but are offered on a limited number of bikes, and are very sensitive to small stones getting between the belt and the pully, often destroying the belt in the process. Resurfacing of roads often brings out this negative point, causing the tires to pick up a tarred piece of gravel and tossing it back where it can lodge in the drive belt. Doesn't happen often, but if it happens to you, its way too often.
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Welcome, Coffee!
I'm glad to see someone using their head before buying a bike!
I'm used to chain drives - never owned a bike with anything else. Today's chains are much improved over what was available in the past and with a little maintenance are extremely dependable. Mine seldom requires adjustment and I don't really mind the cleaning and lubricating.
That said, I think shaft drive would be wonderful, if I could have gotten it on my bike. I'd say if you're like me and buy the bike you love, whatever drive system it has will be OK.

I'm glad to see someone using their head before buying a bike!
I'm used to chain drives - never owned a bike with anything else. Today's chains are much improved over what was available in the past and with a little maintenance are extremely dependable. Mine seldom requires adjustment and I don't really mind the cleaning and lubricating.
That said, I think shaft drive would be wonderful, if I could have gotten it on my bike. I'd say if you're like me and buy the bike you love, whatever drive system it has will be OK.
Let me get this straight... it's one down and four up, right?
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- old-n-slow
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Chain drives and associated sprockets reguire more frequent replacement then other drive types as a rule. Proper maintenanace can help reduce the frequence of replacement.
I for one see the chain drive as an inconvenience on a highway bike but don't mind dealing with one if on a dirt/offroad machine.
A lot of it is just personal feelings regarding maintenence. If you like to tinker and adjust then you may not find chain drive to be an inconvenience, others do.
Not mentioned so far (at least I didn't see it if it was mentioned) is the fact that you must constantly be adjusting chain tension as well as frequently oiling it. If you allow the chain to become too slack it excellerates wear on both the chain and sprockets.
Adjusting tension is no big deal, you simple pull the cotter pin at the rear axle, loosen the axle retaining bolt and possibly the brake locking bolts, then turn the adjusting bolts till proper tension is restored. Then remember to reverse the proceedure before setting off on your drive. The manual will instruct you to replace the cotter pin each time.
I for one see the chain drive as an inconvenience on a highway bike but don't mind dealing with one if on a dirt/offroad machine.
A lot of it is just personal feelings regarding maintenence. If you like to tinker and adjust then you may not find chain drive to be an inconvenience, others do.
Not mentioned so far (at least I didn't see it if it was mentioned) is the fact that you must constantly be adjusting chain tension as well as frequently oiling it. If you allow the chain to become too slack it excellerates wear on both the chain and sprockets.
Adjusting tension is no big deal, you simple pull the cotter pin at the rear axle, loosen the axle retaining bolt and possibly the brake locking bolts, then turn the adjusting bolts till proper tension is restored. Then remember to reverse the proceedure before setting off on your drive. The manual will instruct you to replace the cotter pin each time.

GarryS ---- "We learn from experience that men never learn anything from experience."
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I've always wondered why they suggested that. I can understand it if the cotter pin has seen some serious action, but to replace it twice a month? Seems a bit much to me!old-n-slow wrote: The manual will instruct you to replace the cotter pin each time.
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