Total Motorcycle Community Forums

Yep, pulling a vaccum. Without the cap I get good fuel flow. I replaced the cap so I can only hope that does the trick. I got my chevy fixin tools strapped on, although a six drawer tool box is lookin kinda funny!
Just kiddin!

On the road again!
JR

ok I'll try that I've been seeing alot about checking the cap for proper venting Thanks

If you feel for a cold exhaust pipe it will at least let you know what cylinder it is and chances are that carb is giving some problems

Most likely a stuck needle and float. I'd definately clean the carbs and shoot some compressed air through all the passages and jets. I'd also change the oil and filter and put in fresh plugs before start up with the cleaned carbs.

The book says start the bike and run it 2 to 3 minutes. Shut it OFF and place on center stand and check the oil with a dipstick.

ok, I ran the flow test and came up with 1.25 oz which calculates to 12.50 per minute. The book calls for 22oz, I assume per minute + or - 10%. I checked all the hoses, cleaned the petcock and changed the filter, so the $110.00 question, bad fuel pump? The bike stalls after about a 7 to 10 mile ride...

the bike does run, so I will run my flow test like that. Thanks for clearing things up for me!!
JR

With the engine NOT running the fuel pump pumps no fuel. According to the book it should pump 614 cc with the key in the on position and I assume this is with the engine NOT running?? Is this correct and the fuel pump needs to be replaced?
Thanks
JR

well guess all I can do is ride it till it happens and check for fuel in the float bowl and spark to the cylinders and see what I got. The filter is now new and the pump is pumping fuel.

Thanks for the reply! I hope it's something simple cuz a new pump is 110 bucks. I wonder if a 1970's tank can be adapted to this bike. I don't like where the petcock is any way and I can eliminate the pump all together?? I think it will hold more fuel too? Off to work I go to see if I can find the p...