Bearing retainer ring removal?

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#1 Unread post by **yoda731** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 5:22 pm

Hey, folks. Thanks as always for your help.

I am finally getting around to inspecting & repacking my rear bearings. I've got the wheel off (had a new tire mounted a week ago), and removed the five bolts that held on the flange. Next, per the Clymer's manual, is to remove the bearing retainer ring. If only it were that simple...

It is a metal ring, with four notches that I assume can be latched onto with a special tool to thread the ring out. Here is a pic of the ring, and I've circled the notches (thanks to the CX500 web resource site for the pic)

So the million dollar question-- how can I remove this in order to get the bearings out without damaging the bearings or rim?

JC

BuzZz · #2 Unread post by **BuzZz** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 6:09 pm

It looks alot like the ones on my old Honda CR's, I bet it is. If so, it is made of aluminum or something and soft as butter. Notice also that the retainer in your pic is staked at 2 locations. If yours is as well, and you can't get those pins out, that thing is not coming off without damage to itself and the hub.

Mine were never staked like that, and with a little determination and a couple of screwdrivers, I could turn mine out.

TechTMW · #3 Unread post by **TechTMW** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 8:56 pm

Niiice. Unless you can get those pins out w/ a drift, you're screwed. Sometimes when I get into a bind like this, (Where I don't have the special tool, and i could really screw up the part) I just take the part to the dealership and have them do it for me. If it's just a small thing like this, usually the shop won't even charge me.

#4 Unread post by **yoda731** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 1:30 am

Thanks for the details, fellows. I got it to turn a quarter inch or so by tapping it with a screwdriver and rubber hammer, but like BuzZz said, its butter soft aluminum and I saw the notches immediately deform slightly, so I quit. I will probably see if the dealer can handle this end of it.

JC

#5 Unread post by **9000white** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:17 am

put some grease on your finger and pack it from the inside.

#6 Unread post by **yoda731** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:42 am

9000white wrote:put some grease on your finger and pack it from the inside.

Is that an option (I am a noob)? When I look through the axle shaft, I have the impression that the bearings are more or less sealed so that I could not get grease in?

Regardless, I actually want to get them out to inspect them. On the one hand, they are from a very reliable bike with only 18,000 miles on it. On the other hand, they are 25+ years old, and who knows if they have ever been maintained!

When googling for this, another forum indicated that this retainer ring is sometimes reverse-threaded. Is that standard? I was attempting to tap it out CCW, but will it actually come out CW?

Thanks!
JC

#7 Unread post by **9000white** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:32 am

all the hondas i have only have a seal on one side.packing it from the inside aint exactly the perfect way but if it aint full of dirt it works.

#8 Unread post by **yoda731** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:42 pm

9000white wrote:all the hondas i have only have a seal on one side.packing it from the inside aint exactly the perfect way but if it aint full of dirt it works.

You are correct. Until this evening, I hadn't removed the right-hand bearing and spacer tube to see that. But I did get them out tonight...

The remaining bearing seems to be in good shape, and turns freely.

The one I removed is pretty sluggish, and seems to stick in some spots.

So, is it OK to replace only that bearing? The Clymer's manual says to replace them in pairs, which I understand is ideal. But, to do that will entail taking the wheel to the dealer, I think. If I can get away with just changing the one that is obviously bad, without damaging anything, I'm OK with that. What do you gurus think?

Thanks,
JC

TechTMW · #9 Unread post by **TechTMW** » Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:42 pm

I think you would be setting yourself up for failure - If one's bad they both are. Even if the one still on the wheel "Feels" ok, it's taken the brunt from having a bad bearing on the opposite side. you've gone this far, might as well do the job right, eh?

#10 Unread post by **yoda731** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 1:41 am

TechTMW wrote:I think you would be setting yourself up for failure - If one's bad they both are. Even if the one still on the wheel "Feels" ok, it's taken the brunt from having a bad bearing on the opposite side. you've gone this far, might as well do the job right, eh?

Never argue with sound reason, especially from somebody who actually knows what they are talking about...

The dealer it is.

Thanks again,
JC