Getting a 2-stroke running...

[BuzZz]

Please don't run it without the exhaust. 2 strokes use a 'tuned' exhaust to shape and control the sound waves of the engine, and it plays a major role in how the engine operates. It could also melt down your top-end. It runs now... to tune it, it needs to be complete before anything you do it is acurate.

The float hieght is measured from the bottom of the carb body(with the float bowl off) to the highest piont on the float on most carbs. The float controls the fuel inlet needle and is adjusted by bending the small tabs that act as stops on the float hinge. If it is mis-adjusted or the needle is leaking, that could cause your overflow problem.

It may take some digging to find, but a service manual is an invalueable tool.... for any bike. If you plan on working on it yourself anyways. You can bet your azz the proffesionals use them.

[Quick 350]

What you said was a clutch cable is most likely a decompression cable that runs to a small lever type thing on the head.

A set of bicycle cables work for just about every cable on a moped.

The only one that’s tricky is the throttle cable but it can be used. Some filing will be needed to the little end to fit in the carb slide.

A full set of cable all different lengths can be found a Wal-Mart for $4.00

Classic Cycle Parts also has a complete gasket set for the whole engine for $15.00. That’s a real good deal.

Sach's engines are well built engines that are easy to work on and are pretty tough to kill.

Good Luck!!!

and post back!

Mike

[Anonu]

The clutch cable is for sure the clutch cable. The decompression vlave calbe is fine.

I won't run it again if it's really bad without the exhaust, thanks for the heads up. I guess the next task will be the carb. I'm still not 100% sure how to addjust the float, it looked pretty set in stone the way it is, maybe it's a different style thatn what you're describing.

http://www.ae.uiuc.edu/~onu/gallery/sachs/DSCN3501

Maybe that photo will help. THe same site gallery has the rest of the photos of my project.

[Anonu]

Alright, i've gotton a little further in my research.

I've come up with a very sure fire way of testing whether the float valves are clossing fully or not when the float is up, and they are, on both carbs that I have. So, i tried to find another source of the leakage, and i looked at the gasket i made against the one that was originally there.

Here's the one I made out of 1/64" gasket material.

http://www.ae.uiuc.edu/~onu/gallery/sachs/DSCN3575

http://www.ae.uiuc.edu/~onu/gallery/sachs/DSCN3579

The original one that I peeled off, now that I've looked, seems to be a much thicker material. I can barley tell what the old one is made of, but I assumed it was the cardboard type material, which is what i made the new one from.

So, the next questions are: Do I need a thicker gasket? Does it need to be a different material? Is it allowed to simply make 2-3 gaskets and sandwhich them together (gasket material is expensive when you only need 6 square inches)?

Another question is about the carb design. The 1978 has a needle that opens and closes the jet when you actuate the throttle. The 1981 design has a solid pipe with a whole in it, non adjustable. The throttle will only allow more air. What are the pros and cons of each design?

[Quick 350]

You could try doubling up on the home made gasket.

I'd also try a little gasket cement on your home made gaskets not much gust a coating.

One other thing I noticed in your pic was the float looked a little banged up.

Have you tried submerging the float in a cup of gas to see if it's taking in fuel?

If the float has a leak then there's your problem.

When gas enters the carb it could be filling the float as well causing it to continuously fill the carb (not closing the needle valve)

Good Luck!!!

and post back!

Mike