Was I too easy on it?
Dear Mr Plasmabot,,,, Thats a nice bike, please listen to me, now is the perfect time, before its too late to change the oil and use Amsoil Synthetic Motorcycle Oil 10W40. I promice you will feel a big difference in smoother shifting, cooler running, better acceleration, higher top speed, better mpg, no clutch noise and no top end cam noise. After you change the oil with Amsoil you won't see or feel a difference right away, give it about 2 or 3 days of riding before you feel a difference, the first difference you will see is smoother shifting and I promice you will see anywhere between 5 to 20 mph higher top speed. If you wait when the bike gets around 3K to 5K miles then u switch to Amsoil, its too late, the engine is already ruined and worn and Amsoil won't do any good. You need to understand the clutch in ur bike is different and more complicated than in a regular bike, its very important that clutch is lubed and cooled and has "0" slippage, and using Amsoil is the best you can get for it.
2011 Toyota Tacoma 4x4, 09 Yamaha Tmax, 08 Suzuki King Quad 750
Hmm thanks, I'll look into that. But I'm taking it to the dealer for its first service to get it done right, knowing i'd probably mess something up.MotoF150 wrote:before its too late to change the oil and use Amsoil Synthetic Motorcycle Oil 10W40
.:2006 GSX-R 600:.
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I would't say an engine is "ruined" if you decide to use a dyno oil instead of a synthetic. Will it not gain any advantages that a synthetic oil offers? Yes. But it won't be "ruined".
On the other hand, what should be emphasized, rather than a ruined engine, more like, there is an optimum mileage window that engines should switch to synthetic in order to keep things seated together at optimum tolerances.
It is the same with auto engines. When I put in a new crate engine, I ran dyno until 9k, then switched to synthetic. Usually 6-9k is recommended for the switch.
To say an engine is ruined for not using synthetic is shortsighted and uneducated. Traditional dyno oils work, it's what people used for years befoer synthetic came around. Though the advantages synthetic oils offer is more appealing than running regular dyno oil.
On the other hand, what should be emphasized, rather than a ruined engine, more like, there is an optimum mileage window that engines should switch to synthetic in order to keep things seated together at optimum tolerances.
It is the same with auto engines. When I put in a new crate engine, I ran dyno until 9k, then switched to synthetic. Usually 6-9k is recommended for the switch.
To say an engine is ruined for not using synthetic is shortsighted and uneducated. Traditional dyno oils work, it's what people used for years befoer synthetic came around. Though the advantages synthetic oils offer is more appealing than running regular dyno oil.
Mr. Shorts,, ur exactly right, wait untill the engine is broken in before switching to synthetic oil, then after that you will have "0" internal engine wear. What is the perfect milage when a motorcycle engine is broken in? I think its anywhere between 600 to 1500 miles. Some people say a motorcycle engine isn't broken in untill 5000 miles, I think any high rpm crotch rocket engine breaks in at 500 miles, there is 3 times more wear and tear on an engine that revs 3 times higher. Everybody seems to forget that crotch rockets run at very high RPM's Crotch Rocket wet clutches are wayyyyy diifferent than a wet cruiser type clutch so its even more important to have the right oil for that clutch to work correctly. A crotch rocket clutch spinns 3 times faster and the flow of oil thru all the plates is very important. People tend to compare automotive engine oil to motorcycle engine oil, but in a motorcycle the same oil is a transmission and clutch oil too, and thats just as important.
2011 Toyota Tacoma 4x4, 09 Yamaha Tmax, 08 Suzuki King Quad 750
Mr. Plasmabot, PLEASE!! PLEASE!!! use a FULL SYNTHETIC when you take it to the dealer for an oil change. If you don't want Amsoil, Suzuki makes a " 4 Cycle Synthetic Racing Motorcycle Oil" its in a black bottle with a green cap, its not as good as Amsoil, but it will work. Its really too bad any of you guys never even tryed Amsoil, you will be AMAZED what a BIG difference in makes in ur bike! It will shift as smooth as butter, no clunking with changing gears and using the clutch, if you have a temp guage on or bike it will be pointing lower. I was the same way before I was turned on to Amsoil, I thought those claims were bogus, but I tryed it and I was turned on , now im Amsoil junkie.
2011 Toyota Tacoma 4x4, 09 Yamaha Tmax, 08 Suzuki King Quad 750
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macktruckturner
- Legendary 300
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Plamsa,
Dude, if you have the money to run synthetic, go for it - it ain't going to hurt anything. Conversely, please do ignore the rampant sensationalism - which is largely proven to be just that by comparitive wear tests on engines dyno tested at 80% load for 24 hours at 5000rpm (Honda B16A, if one must know the exact engine model I'm talking about). I know plenty of the details in this test as I built both engines - and ran the dynos. Engine 1 was fed Castrol GTX 10W30, Engine 2 was fed Amsoil, in the same grade. Both engines used the same Wix filter - and were internally similar in all tolerances to .001". After 24hrs of heavy load, they were still internally similar to the same degree. Both had still seated their rings fine, and demonstrated proper mating of pistons and cylinders. Engine 1, last I heard from the owner, had 158K trouble free miles - and he's run GTX ever since. Engine 2 is no more, the owner decided attempting 18psi of boost, and a 150 shot was smart - melted cylinder 2, and subsequently slammed his Integra into a wall - it had 38K miles before he lost his mind.
The point here is simple, I just went on a long winded rant b/c I hear this all the time. Anyway, pick an oil - be it one of Amsoil's synthetics, or freakin' Shell Rotella T 15W40 (guess which I run) - and change it regularly. Pick a filter (and for the love of God, not Fram) - and stick with it. Change both, at the same time, every time. You will be fine, your engine will be fine, and you will not lose an ounce of power that is actually noticable on anything but an eddy current dyno. This applies to cars, bikes, trucks, lawnmowers, weedeaters, and anything else with an engine. Get it on a diet and a schedule - and stick to it, it'll outlast you provided you don't do something stupid like the owner of Engine 2.
Regards,
Anthony
ps: to answer your initial post - you did fine on your break-in. I followed the manual aside from one blast to near redline to avoid being squashed by an idiot in a truck - 9400mi later compression is still fine, my valves are still well within clearance, and I don't burn any oil. Keep the rubber side down, and ride safe.
Dude, if you have the money to run synthetic, go for it - it ain't going to hurt anything. Conversely, please do ignore the rampant sensationalism - which is largely proven to be just that by comparitive wear tests on engines dyno tested at 80% load for 24 hours at 5000rpm (Honda B16A, if one must know the exact engine model I'm talking about). I know plenty of the details in this test as I built both engines - and ran the dynos. Engine 1 was fed Castrol GTX 10W30, Engine 2 was fed Amsoil, in the same grade. Both engines used the same Wix filter - and were internally similar in all tolerances to .001". After 24hrs of heavy load, they were still internally similar to the same degree. Both had still seated their rings fine, and demonstrated proper mating of pistons and cylinders. Engine 1, last I heard from the owner, had 158K trouble free miles - and he's run GTX ever since. Engine 2 is no more, the owner decided attempting 18psi of boost, and a 150 shot was smart - melted cylinder 2, and subsequently slammed his Integra into a wall - it had 38K miles before he lost his mind.
The point here is simple, I just went on a long winded rant b/c I hear this all the time. Anyway, pick an oil - be it one of Amsoil's synthetics, or freakin' Shell Rotella T 15W40 (guess which I run) - and change it regularly. Pick a filter (and for the love of God, not Fram) - and stick with it. Change both, at the same time, every time. You will be fine, your engine will be fine, and you will not lose an ounce of power that is actually noticable on anything but an eddy current dyno. This applies to cars, bikes, trucks, lawnmowers, weedeaters, and anything else with an engine. Get it on a diet and a schedule - and stick to it, it'll outlast you provided you don't do something stupid like the owner of Engine 2.
Regards,
Anthony
ps: to answer your initial post - you did fine on your break-in. I followed the manual aside from one blast to near redline to avoid being squashed by an idiot in a truck - 9400mi later compression is still fine, my valves are still well within clearance, and I don't burn any oil. Keep the rubber side down, and ride safe.