No low beams, but highs work

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Shorts · #1 Unread post by **Shorts** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 1:24 pm

I ran through the search for ideas. The headlight on the bike, the highs work but the low beam doesn't. Looking at the headlight, it says 'H4' among the Stanley part # and DOT.

Is H4 the kind of headlight (bulb?) for the bike? And I guess I burnt out the low filment but the high is ok??

I've been moving around the control switches and whatnot the last couple of days and the lows were working before I messed with everything. Is there maybe a fuse for low beams? <--- is that mentally challenged?

dieziege · #2 Unread post by **dieziege** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 1:29 pm

H4 is the type of bulb... it's a small quartz halogen envelope that has two filaments and goes into a fixed reflector.... and one side (high or low) can burn out on its own.

There may also be a fuse specific to the low beams.

Another good possibility is that the wire that powers the low beam (or drives the relay) has come loose from the switch.

In any case it is time for you to spend some quality time with a continuity checker/ohm meter.

Shorts · #3 Unread post by **Shorts** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 1:46 pm

Ehhh, wire pokin'....great

I'm at a loss where to start though, I have no repair manual for my bike (they don't exist in English apparently). I'm gonna order a JPN one, if just for the pictures

I guess I can start at the switch and see what colors and go to the headlight and see what matches. I had the headlight out last night..."Hmm, sure are a lotta wires in here".

I might leave the headlight alone until I get the controls up and running. I gotta get the bike rideable.

oldschoolorange · Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:02 pm

go here for your manual http://www.manualclub.com/
and for the love of god DO NOT POKE WIRES! take the headlight plug out and test it there at the plug. Once you poke a wire it will turn green on you sometime down the road

BuzZz · #5 Unread post by **BuzZz** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 7:18 pm

10:1 odds that it's the low-beam filiment gone. You can get a replacement bulb at any parts store. Most have a selection of that # bulb in price/quality ranges from $3 to $30.

Shorts · #6 Unread post by **Shorts** » Wed Jul 19, 2006 10:20 pm

Yeah, I'm willing to spend $ on the bulb now than go through wires. I went to the motorcycle shop to pick up some thing so I asked the guy what it might be, he said bulb as well. So, I had him order it, $20ish.

Thanks for the link on the manual. I checked it out before, but mine isn't in there

dieziege · #7 Unread post by **dieziege** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 3:18 am

I guess my point was that if you have a multimeter you can check the bulb for continuity... you can also check to see if the headlight connector is providing juice. A couple minutes will tell you whether the problem is in bulb or bike. Much cheaper than buying a new bulb and finding out it was the fuse or switch or something.

Always check wires at the ends, not in the middle.

MartimusPrimus · Thu Jul 20, 2006 8:36 am

I had that problem with my 77 honda 750k and it turned out to be a loose wire on the high/low beam switch

Shorts · #9 Unread post by **Shorts** » Thu Jul 20, 2006 11:07 am

dieziege wrote:I guess my point was that if you have a multimeter you can check the bulb for continuity... you can also check to see if the headlight connector is providing juice. A couple minutes will tell you whether the problem is in bulb or bike. Much cheaper than buying a new bulb and finding out it was the fuse or switch or something.

Always check wires at the ends, not in the middle.

Yeah, I got that from your input. I wasn't going to actually poke holes in wires. I said "wire pokin'" in reference to doing electrical work. I'm not sure why that got the thread going sideways

Sadly (and surprisingly) I don't have a multimeter. I always used dad's so I never bought one of my own (not useful when I'm not near dad's garage).

dieziege · Thu Jul 20, 2006 11:38 am

I've met people that would (and did) use VOM probes through insulation... you don't strike me as that sort though.

I always prefer to start simple with these things... e.g. if no fuses are blown it can't be a fuse. If the lightbulb lights (or at least conducts) it isn't the bulb... simple, easy to check, and while checking them won't necessarily solve the problem at least you won't wind up 5 hours into a troubleshooting expedition going "The $^&#* FUSE is blown? $#&^* $&#* #*$&@ *$&#@ FUSE! Arrgg!" (Which could be a direct quote from me but we won't go there.

)

If you were messing with the switch, you'll probably end up coming back there and finding a connection is bad or something... or you might find there are several problems.