Blinker witing to on/off/on toggle switch - Honda

[Shorts]

I need some help with wiring an on/off/on toggle switch. I'm hoping to tap into the blinker wiring and put this toggle on the right side where I can reach it.





There are 6 connections on the toggle switch.


1) Does anyone know/have the wire colors for the Honda blinkers? (again, if there was a repair manual available, I'd have it)

2) How do I wire it to the 6 connectors?

3) Do I need to run an inline fuse between the new toggle switch and the bike wiring that I tap into?

4) Will my blinkers still blink????

[TechTMW]

What are you trying to power w/ this switch?

Do you have the waterproof rubber cap for it?

Blinkers use a special (usually bimetallic) relay to "Blink" so, you'd have to splice to the blinker wires in the circuit Before the relay so as not to interfere w/ its operation. Then, depending on what you are trying to wire, it may cause problems w/ your circuit.

I would suggest that you buy a premade wiring kit instead of guessing what to put where. I've bought from this guy before, and he does a GREAT job. Plus he's in your neck of the woods.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Home/Main/main.html

If you tell me what kind of accessory you are trying to install, I can help you choose the proper kit and install it.

[Gadjet]

If you tell me what kind of accessory you are trying to install, I can help you choose the proper kit and install it.

He's trying to re-wire his turn signals Tech. He has to move all of his controls onto the right side of the bars, as he only has one (usable) arm.

[TechTMW]

Ah, ok. Well, have you just tried moving the stock switch housing from the one side of the bars to the other? This way it can be converted back w/ minimum fuss if you ever try to resell. At any rate, even if that's not feasible, you should be able to at least reroute the wiring from where the switch is to where the new switch will be.

Use your multimeter to determine which wire is right, which is left and which is ground. then use your multimeter to check continuity between terminals when the switch is toggled to the left and then toggled to the right, and hook up the wires accordingly. You should only need to use 3 of the terminals on the new switch.

You really don't even have to check which wire controls which blinker really, as long as you get the ground wire correct, you can just rotate the switch 180 degrees if flipping it left makes the right blinker go on, etc.

And, as I mentioned (Sortof) that's probably not a waterproof switch. You'll have to find a rubber cover for the toggle. And unless you are building some kind of switch housing, you should probably also get a rubber cover for the rear of thw switch. They do make them, but I'm not sure where you can get them!

[Shorts]

Ah, ok. Well, have you just tried moving the stock switch housing from the one side of the bars to the other?

Yes. It is not easier though. 1) My choke cable is integrated with the housing. 2) I do not have anywhere to put it. Ran out of room on the handlebars. 3) Would have had to remove the grip to get the choke handle/collar off.

This way it can be converted back w/ minimum fuss if you ever try to resell. At any rate, even if that's not feasible, you should be able to at least reroute the wiring from where the switch is to where the new switch will be.

"Minimum fuss" was thrown out the window on this project, otherwise it wouldn't have gotten done I always worried about that when modifying my truck. I have found that it only makes the thinking a little harder and the money spent much more. Then, none of the stuff I ever did to the truck ever went back to stock.

I'm looking at putting this new toggle switch in the blank slot above the starter switch. Then run the wiring from the toggle switch to the wiring harness as it exits the left housing. I thought if I could tap in there I could still activiate the correct wire for the correct blinker:




Things inside the housing is tight there with the bar and all, so still not real sure I can fit it in there with the wire connectors. So, That plan might change a bit.

The original is a "left for left, right for right, and press center to cancel". I was initially thinking taking out the turn signal assembly and putting it in the other housing, but the switch seems to be built into the housing. It has like a little pivoting metal arm that makes contact at either side to another metal contact depending on which way the turn signal arm has pushed it. Now, the press to cancel just centers that pivoting contact arm so that it is not contacting either side.

Use your multimeter to determine which wire is right, which is left and which is ground. then use your multimeter to check continuity between terminals when the switch is toggled to the left and then toggled to the right, and hook up the wires accordingly. You should only need to use 3 of the terminals on the new switch.

You really don't even have to check which wire controls which blinker really, as long as you get the ground wire correct, you can just rotate the switch 180 degrees if flipping it left makes the right blinker go on, etc.

Ok, I'll only use 3 terminals. Is that 2 powers and a ground? or? Forgive my ignorance.

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[TechTMW]

It SHOULD only be 2 powers and ground, but w/o a wiring diagram I can't tell you that's a fact (It may be 2 grounds and a power!) . The switch you are using is just an aux awitch for av equipment and whatnot, so all you have to do is choose a terminal for ground, and then flip the switch left, find a terminal that has a closed circuit, then rinse and repeat for the other side.

You also have to make sure that both terminals aren't closed when the switch is either right or left. an on-off-on switch like this may close the circuit for all six terminals when flipped right or left, meaning your blinkers will not function, or will blink like hazard lights

It is important to cover the rear of the switch with some kind of housing because when you click it right or left, you are going to have a few exposed live terminals. You are going to need a sturdy mount-point also. Those switches aren't as easy to flip as a normal bike blinker switch.

[Shorts]

I copied down the wiring that I could readily get to behind the headlight. It ran from the housing switch then branched into various harnesses. I went to where the bundle split out to each front blinker, it had 5 wires. Only one wire (green) ran to both blinkers. I'm thinking that is the ground. But that is really all heresy for now.

I wish I had a wiring diagram as well.

Well, I gotta run for a bit. I'll get back and take a look to see how the switch in the housing opens/closes.

[TechTMW]

Yes, honda uses green for ground. tell me - why aren't you just cutting the wires at the signal switch and running them to the other handle bar?

[Shorts]

That's more or less what I was going to do:

I'm looking at putting this new toggle switch in the blank slot above the starter switch. Then run the wiring from the toggle switch to the wiring harness as it exits the left housing. I thought if I could tap in there I could still activiate the correct wire for the correct blinker:

I already ran an extension from the clutch lever safety switch, so I was just going to run the blinker extensions through the same loom from the right to the left.

I just needed to know:

There are 6 connections on the toggle switch.


1) Does anyone know/have the wire colors for the Honda blinkers? (again, if there was a repair manual available, I'd have it)

2) How do I wire it to the 6 connectors?

3) Do I need to run an inline fuse between the new toggle switch and the bike wiring that I tap into?

4) Will my blinkers still blink????

I'm tracking the wiring down on the bike. I'm just not real sure what to put where on the toggle switch. I haven't cut open the wire bundle at the switch housing yet. Instead of cutting the looms open, I wanted to be sure that's what I needed to do.

[Shorts]

I got into the wiring today, now I must see if I can get things into the DPDT toggle switch. It may not be able to work though but I need some help. Here's the turn signal switch harness.


Turn signal indicator:

Black main position = no blinkers, running lights only;

Pink position = turning right

Lime green = turning left


Wire harness colors:

Light blue = blinks right side signal

Grey/blk = blinker switch, constant hot regardless signal position

Orange = blinks left side signal


Black/yellow/white = Ign hot, constant power regardless center, left or right


Orange/white = running light for left side, ign hot (and in black position); no power when blinking left light (green position)

Lt blue/white = running light for right side, ign hot (and in black position); no power when blinking right (pink position)




Is there a way to wire that up to a on-off-on DPDT (6 pole) toggle switch without losing my running lights?