Bike has issues initially but then is fine
- Falkenheld
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- Location: Niagara, Canada
Bike has issues initially but then is fine
I have a feeling my carbs need some maintenance but I wanted some opinions before I delve into that.
I ride my motorcycle to work and home every day and it takes me about 30-45 minutes. My bike, it seems, is either cold-blooded or being stubborn due to its carbs.
If I start up the bike in the morning or after work I have to pull up the choke to get the engine actually turning. I rev it a bit and the rpms eventually jump up to around 2000 or 3000. I let my bike sit there a bit to get it warmed up and it seems stable with the rpms. If I push down the choke halfway I usually can keep the rpms steady but pushing it all the way down will make the bike slowly lose the rpms then shut off.
I try to ride out with my choke up but even then I get problems while I'm in first or when I come to a stop at the lights or whatever. I can hear and feel my bike sputtering and slowly losing rpms and before my bike totally stalls I move off to the side of the road to get my bike running again. This usually involves pulling out the choke and for some reason playing with my petcock switch (dunno if that actually helps since I have enough fuel).
After embarrassing stop sign or light problems, my bike finally is stable enough to ride and I eventually make it out to the highway where I get up to 5000-6000 rpms and I can safely put my choke down and ride without the bike losing rpms. I can even come to stops at the lights and my bike will comfortably idle with the rpm needle around 2000.
This all sounds like a carburetor issue, or? I have plenty of fuel and my bike does eventually run smoothly when it gets over its initial hiccups.
Time to clean the carbs and filter or just me not warming my bike up long enough before I ride?
I ride my motorcycle to work and home every day and it takes me about 30-45 minutes. My bike, it seems, is either cold-blooded or being stubborn due to its carbs.
If I start up the bike in the morning or after work I have to pull up the choke to get the engine actually turning. I rev it a bit and the rpms eventually jump up to around 2000 or 3000. I let my bike sit there a bit to get it warmed up and it seems stable with the rpms. If I push down the choke halfway I usually can keep the rpms steady but pushing it all the way down will make the bike slowly lose the rpms then shut off.
I try to ride out with my choke up but even then I get problems while I'm in first or when I come to a stop at the lights or whatever. I can hear and feel my bike sputtering and slowly losing rpms and before my bike totally stalls I move off to the side of the road to get my bike running again. This usually involves pulling out the choke and for some reason playing with my petcock switch (dunno if that actually helps since I have enough fuel).
After embarrassing stop sign or light problems, my bike finally is stable enough to ride and I eventually make it out to the highway where I get up to 5000-6000 rpms and I can safely put my choke down and ride without the bike losing rpms. I can even come to stops at the lights and my bike will comfortably idle with the rpm needle around 2000.
This all sounds like a carburetor issue, or? I have plenty of fuel and my bike does eventually run smoothly when it gets over its initial hiccups.
Time to clean the carbs and filter or just me not warming my bike up long enough before I ride?
[b]1980 Honda CB400T[/b]
- TechTMW
- Legendary 2000
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- Location: Alexandria VA
Re: Bike has issues initially but then is fine
Yes!Falkenheld wrote: Time to clean the carbs and filter
You will open those things up, and they will probably look pretty clean, but the problem with your carbs is in the Idle circuit - too small for you to see into.
If you do a search of carb cleaning or related topics, you'll see that alot of folks with cab problems try to clean their carbs ... only to have to open them up again due to improper cleaning (They are difficult to clean properly, require alot of patience) So, I would suggest that you have them cleaned professionally, or at least buy good carb dip to get them really clean. Spray cans of carb cleaner are worthless. Might as well wash em with dish soap.

“People demand freedom of speech as a compensation for the freedom of thought which they seldom use.”
- Soren Kierkegaard (19th century Danish philosopher)
- Soren Kierkegaard (19th century Danish philosopher)
carbs
So I happen to strongly disagree with Tech here because I have cleaned multiple carbs now and never had a problem. I also have never invested in a cleaner bucket...spray carb cleaner and a REALLY thin wire and an air compressor. If you don't have any of these things, they are VITAL, so borrow them. Good luck, and even though you will probably have to do them twice (I had to at the beginning)
It still costs a heck of a lot less than 100 bucks. Just take your time and write down each step for reassembly. Good Luck
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Last edited by honda750 on Mon Feb 23, 2009 4:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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-edited oops.
--the dip can is essential. with the wire you risk altering the passages you clean. And its a lot more work to do it right (i.e.: once) with the wire...
a good carb dip is not that expensive and you can do 4 bike carbs 2 o3 times on one.
you are correct about the air compressor being vital. just dont blow out the needle jet!!
--the dip can is essential. with the wire you risk altering the passages you clean. And its a lot more work to do it right (i.e.: once) with the wire...
a good carb dip is not that expensive and you can do 4 bike carbs 2 o3 times on one.
you are correct about the air compressor being vital. just dont blow out the needle jet!!
- Falkenheld
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- Sex: Male
- Location: Niagara, Canada
Well I can now ride without the issue cropping up if I warm up my bike with the clutch up for a little, ride with the clutch up and as soon as I am riding without constant stops (lights, stop signs), I put the clutch down and all is fine.
The bike will also start and ride well without the clutch stuff if I've parked and ride it again after a short time, but more than a few hours and it needs warming up again.
Once I get the carbs cleaned it should be interesting to see how she does.
The bike will also start and ride well without the clutch stuff if I've parked and ride it again after a short time, but more than a few hours and it needs warming up again.
Once I get the carbs cleaned it should be interesting to see how she does.

[b]1980 Honda CB400T[/b]
- logitech104
- Legendary 500
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i pretty much have the same bike, cleaned the carbs, ran perfect. but i have these rubber stopper things over my idle jet. weird i know, but it wouldnt run without them in. there should be 3 jets to my knowledge.
*edit* by clean the carbs i mean i cleaned and inspected every passage and moving part in it.
*edit* by clean the carbs i mean i cleaned and inspected every passage and moving part in it.

Last edited by logitech104 on Thu Nov 09, 2006 10:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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[1981 honda cb400t hawk][2004 honda crf150f]
[1981 honda cb400t hawk][2004 honda crf150f]
- insaneman_12
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The rubber stopers are there cause it pulls gas from the main jet passage. So dont just clean your jets, but all of the passages inside your carbs. Plus it would not hurt to sycronise them. How ever you spell it.
71 CB 750 K1
94 PC 800
76 CB 550 K
75 TS 185
76 TC 185
63 YSA-1
06 YZ 450F
84 XL 350R
02 KX 85 with 75 XR 75 motor XR 200 sus.
94 PC 800
76 CB 550 K
75 TS 185
76 TC 185
63 YSA-1
06 YZ 450F
84 XL 350R
02 KX 85 with 75 XR 75 motor XR 200 sus.