Low-sided TWICE in ONE day...arggg!

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Kal · #11 Unread post by **Kal** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 4:20 pm

qwerty wrote:Point is, throttle position and rpm determine engine output. The clutch determines how much of that engine output goes to the wheel. The clutch is not an on-off switch.

Hell yeah.

#12 Unread post by **Koss** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 5:41 pm

Kal wrote:
qwerty wrote:Point is, throttle position and rpm determine engine output. The clutch determines how much of that engine output goes to the wheel. The clutch is not an on-off switch.
Hell yeah.

Exactly.

Also, I have just came back from a night time trip around the back streets in my area. And I figured out exactly what im doing in turns. I was pretty much right with what I said earlier. I found that on any immediate turn from a dead stop, I rev up to 2,000-2,200rpm... release the clutch until im at the late mid point to the near end of my friction zone on the clutch, and maintain the throttle position through out the turn. I use the same technique wether im turning, or just going straight from a dead stop. When the bike gets up to speed I release the clutch and perfectly the speed matches the 2,200 rpm range im in. At the most it will be 2,500 by the time I fully release the clutch.

And you shouldn't worry about stalling out with the bike. When pulling my motorcycle into the garage from a dead stop on the uphill driveway... I pull her in with just 1,300-1,500 rpm. When taking the u-turn directly after my driveway around the medium center divider... with both sides of the street having parked cars along it... I go through the turn with 1,500-2,200 rpm. So pretty much thats all the engine power the bike needs for even the sharpest of turns. Its all in the clutch!

My clutch lever is set on the "5" position btw.

Edit: Just a little addition to my giant posts... as usual.

I remembered something my instructor told me during the MSF. If people find trouble with releasing the clutch and stalling or jerking... do this.

Sit on your bike with the engine off. Pull in the clutch. Slowly release the clutch while counting "One thousand one, One Thousand Two, One Thousand Three". In three seconds you should be from fully pulled in, to fully released clutch at exactly the end of the time. I do it differently, but this might help you also.

intotherain · Wed Dec 06, 2006 6:05 pm

is this because of the big engine or clutch contro? icant see how it would be clutch control.

#14 Unread post by **Koss** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 6:07 pm

Dohun wrote:is this because of the big engine or clutch contro? icant see how it would be clutch control.

You can view it as, the engine only provides a certain amount of power upon demand... but the clutch is what allows that power to reach the rear wheel. The clutch is controling the power. And you dont need alot of power to upset traction on a turn, like a u-turn for example.

Shorts · #15 Unread post by **Shorts** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 6:19 pm

Dohun wrote:is this because of the big engine or clutch contro? icant see how it would be clutch control.

The control is in the clutch. That's why that is the first thing they teach you at MSF or riding school, how to control the clutch to control your low speed.

CycleNewb · Thu Dec 07, 2006 5:43 am

Social Distortion wrote:be saafe out there
i'd make sure that i stop well far from the stoppping point at your stop sign or light. I'd then go straight to get some momentum and throttle through your turn.
hang in there

+1

Definately practice the clutch control, but SD has a great idea for in the meantime.

Kal · #17 Unread post by **Kal** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:58 am

My CBT instructor decided to show us what is possible during the days training. He took one bike that we had been using and revved the "lightbulbs" off of it, I mean he really had that engine screaming.

Meanwhile he was making his way around the obstical course at walking pace. Because he wasnt fully engaging the clutch a small percentage of the power was going to the rear wheel no matter how much throttle he was giving it.

Its a skill I occasionally practise but not as often as I'd feel good about.

Lion_Lady · Fri Dec 08, 2006 3:52 am

When I was learning to drive a stick shift car, the first thing my Dad taught me was... DON'T LOOK AT THE GAUGES!!! FEEL THE ENGINE WORKING. I think it has made the entire clutch/shifting thing a LOT easier.

You're already trying to assimilate enough info, the gauges are just adding to the confusion. The tach is just there to confirm what you should already have a feel for.

LISTEN to the engine as you let the clutch out: Is it 'lugging' - slowing down and chugging. Or does it sound 'normal'?

As you let the clutch out, listen to what the engine is doing... if you hear it start to slow down/lug add a bit more throttle and let the bike move forward. It is a balancing act, and if you insist of learning how many rpms the engine should be running at (which means you have to watch the gauge) you are NOT able to concentrate on how it FEELS.

P

qwerty · #19 Unread post by **qwerty** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 1:37 pm

Tach? What's that? I don't even have one, nor do I need one. Rev it until it pulls, slip the clutch and trailbrake if necessary, shift up when it quits pulling. If it chugs when you roll on the throttle, downshift.

Shorts · #20 Unread post by **Shorts** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 2:09 pm

Heh, I don't have a tach either. Trying to learn how to ride and keep my butt from dropping on the pavement, a tach wasn't a priority