So, dealing with hill's how?
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So, dealing with hill's how?
Okay, so I've passed my MSF, got a new to me GS500E, and finished getting a set of riding gear. So while I wait for PENNDOT to register the bike I figure I'll ask if there are any tips for:
1. Starting / stopping on hills.
2. Picking up a dropped bike on uneven ground.
Thanks in advance
1. Starting / stopping on hills.
2. Picking up a dropped bike on uneven ground.
Thanks in advance
starting on hills is no problem, one finger on the front brake lever should hold the bike till you pull out, stopping on hills no problem either use both the rear and front brakes and advoid shale or gravel in the middle of the road, picking up a bike, ride with friends so they can help you pick it up, Did you know most new bikes have a tilt sensor that either records it or shuts down ur bike when you roll it on its side?
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- Flting Duck
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Starting on uphill: Stop the bike and, leaning to the left just a little and supporting you bike with your left leg, use your right foot to hold the bike in place with the rear brake. Apply throttle slowly while realeasing the clutch until it starts to engage.
As a newbie, I wouldn't advise you to try to operate the throttle and brake at the same time while starting on a hill.
It's a good idea to start practicing on slight hills, then pratice on steeper hills.
As a newbie, I wouldn't advise you to try to operate the throttle and brake at the same time while starting on a hill.
It's a good idea to start practicing on slight hills, then pratice on steeper hills.
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- Sev
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This is right.Flting Duck wrote:Starting on uphill: Stop the bike and, leaning to the left just a little and supporting you bike with your left leg, use your right foot to hold the bike in place with the rear brake. Apply throttle slowly while realeasing the clutch until it starts to engage.
As a newbie, I wouldn't advise you to try to operate the throttle and brake at the same time while starting on a hill.
It's a good idea to start practicing on slight hills, then pratice on steeper hills.
This is wrong, and stupid as it impedes your ability to roll on the throttle. And if you release the front brake then you roll backwards until your engine is putting enough power to pavement to get you moving forwards.MotoF150 wrote:starting on hills is no problem, one finger on the front brake lever should hold the bike till you pull out
Ideally when starting on a hill you will keep pressure on the rear brake with your right leg while you roll on the gas smoothly and gently let out the clutch. As you reach the friction point you will feel the bike gently tug forwards. And just like you would when you're starting regularly you let out the clutch and increase the engine revs. But when the bike starts to pull forward a bit you let off the rear brake (right foot) smoothly.
This is common on fuel injected bikes because they run off a pump that'll hit 45-50psi. And once it starts sucking air instead of gas bad things happen to the bike. So if you tip the bike over past XXXX degrees it should automatically kill the engine. Lots of stunters disable their tip over sensors (either by filling them with silicone, or bypassing the switch electronically), because they can work front to back (wheelie/stoppy) or left to right (tipped bike). And having the engine cutout while you're riding a wheelie is not good times.MotoF150 wrote: Did you know most new bikes have a tilt sensor that either records it or shuts down ur bike when you roll it on its side?
Is anyone else getting tired of having to follow Moto around correcting the wrong information that he leaves?
Of course I'm generalizing from a single example here, but everyone does that. At least I do.
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- jstark47
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Yes.Sevulturus wrote:Is anyone else getting tired of having to follow Moto around correcting the wrong information that he leaves?
That info about using the front brake on a hill was not only wrong, it was dangerous to a newbie.
Was amused to see his rave about his test ride on a DL1000. On Nov. 30 he was recommending a DL1000 as a first bike to someone - now we see he'd never ridden that bike at that time. I own a DL1000, it's not newb bike - whatta maroon!!
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- Dragonhawk
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Re: So, dealing with hill's how?
Answers:pedal power wrote:Okay, so I've passed my MSF, got a new to me GS500E, and finished getting a set of riding gear. So while I wait for PENNDOT to register the bike I figure I'll ask if there are any tips for:
1. Starting / stopping on hills.
2. Picking up a dropped bike on uneven ground.
#1 - As others have said, use your BACK brake. NOT the front. On a hill, you come to a stop like normal (use both brakes). Once you are at a complete stop, put down your left foot and keep your right foot on the rear brake. When you get ready to go again, you need to coordinate 3 movements:
a.) Roll on the throttle.
b.) Ease off the clutch.
c.) Ease off the rear brake.
You do all 3 simultaneously. It is difficult and confusing to learn. But, like anything else, it will eventually become second-nature.
Living among the hills and mountains of California, I simply HAD to learn to do this. One good tip - practice on level-ground. I do ALL the time. Even on flat pavement, I always stay on my rear brake and ease out of it as I begin to move again. It keeps me in constant practice so at those rare times when I reach nasty hills, I never panic because I'm so accustomed to already riding that way.
#2 - Picking up a dropped bike on uneven ground? Oh, cripe. Try not to do that ... Seriously. Like if you drop your bike perpendicular to a downhill incline, you are SO screwed ... Especially when you have a SUPER hot model riding as a passenger ... but let's not go there. Just don't drop your bike on a hill. Ever.

Last edited by Dragonhawk on Mon Dec 18, 2006 6:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- Nibblet99
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Hill starts
As they said above, stop as normal. If the bikes not in first when you stop, hold it on the front brake, so you can shift it into first (as expected really)
When preparing to go, right foot on the rear brake holding the bike still, left foot on the ground, hand on the throttle and clutch, ignore the front brake.
Add a bit of power, NOT too much (10 thousand RPM), and not too little (1 thousand RPM). around about 2-3 thousand is nice.
Slowly release the clutch till you feel it biting.
Then slowly release the rear brake and you should move
FINALLY once the bike is moving nicely, ease out the rest of the clutch till its fully engaged
Picking up a bike on uneven ground
Good luck!, try not to put your back out, or drop it again
As they said above, stop as normal. If the bikes not in first when you stop, hold it on the front brake, so you can shift it into first (as expected really)
When preparing to go, right foot on the rear brake holding the bike still, left foot on the ground, hand on the throttle and clutch, ignore the front brake.
Add a bit of power, NOT too much (10 thousand RPM), and not too little (1 thousand RPM). around about 2-3 thousand is nice.
Slowly release the clutch till you feel it biting.
Then slowly release the rear brake and you should move
FINALLY once the bike is moving nicely, ease out the rest of the clutch till its fully engaged
Picking up a bike on uneven ground
Good luck!, try not to put your back out, or drop it again

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- Dichotomous
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well, not go against the crowd or anything, and its not a technique that would work untill you have ridden for a few months, but I have to agree with moto here. I do both, rear brake and front brake, and I find myself much smoother and more confident with the front brake method. everytime I pull out of work I have to do this. one or two fingers on the front brake and I can still twist the throttle just fine. but maybe this is more of a personal issue of which is better for each person. Obviously for a REALLY steep hill rear is better, or a combo, but I hardley belive it absolute. It could also be that different people find that either their hands are dexterious enough to pull off more than one thing going on and prefer that, or find that their feet and hands together work better or dont have dexterious enough hands or their hands arent large enough to work both. I could see if you had smaller hands that working the brake and throttle together might be harder, I have large hands (technically XL size for mens gloves) and find it easy and smoother.
BUT as per the post, rear is better to have as a standard, THEN try out the front to see if you like it or if it works for you, if not then dont use it. But PLEASE dont limit yourself in ways to do things. even bad techniques will be good in certain situations.
BUT as per the post, rear is better to have as a standard, THEN try out the front to see if you like it or if it works for you, if not then dont use it. But PLEASE dont limit yourself in ways to do things. even bad techniques will be good in certain situations.
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Throttle on man, Throttle on....
Theres just something about a blue bike....
Throttle on man, Throttle on....
- jstark47
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Dichotomous, remember we're talking to a self-identified newb here. In this case I'll personally always give the "party line." Sure, other techniques can work. But if they had enough experience, self-confidence, etc. to work out alternatives, IMO they wouldn't be posting this kind of question in the first place. We know holding with the foot brake works - let them get that under their belt.
Besides dexterity and hand size, another variable is the throttle spring.
Besides dexterity and hand size, another variable is the throttle spring.
2003 Triumph Trophy 1200
2009 BMW F650GS (wife's)
2012 Triumph Tiger 800
2018 Yamaha XT250 (wife's)
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2009 BMW F650GS (wife's)
2012 Triumph Tiger 800
2018 Yamaha XT250 (wife's)
2013 Kawasaki KLX250S