89 Kaw won't shift into first cold

[honda750]

It's amazing what one word does. I said in the previous post that it won't start COLD......what I really meant was every time after it SITS
If I leave it idle for 5 minutes I can't let out the clutch at any RPM without it stalling. It don't understand.
Then I have to have it rolling to be able to start out without stalling.
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Liver Disorders Forum

[roscowgo]

yikes. ok

a. stalls after cool down, Rpms's don't matter.
b. stalls after sitting for a few mins. Rpms don't matter
c. shifts, runs fine after moving
d. does not stall if you get it rolling.

i think that outlines your symptoms.

the rolling part is kinda troubling. does it try to pull when it meets the stall requirements? or does it just shut flat off?

If it just shuts off i would think something electrical. If the engine is running well and it bogs it down till it dies i would think tranny, clutch, something binding. If the engine is spluttery or whatnot i would think something fuel or generally engine related.

Is it hard to get rolling so you can avoid the stall? (rear brake locked maybe, belt too tight etc..) I'm guessing you are either using a hill or leg power to get it moving.

Whats the oil status?

[safety-boy]

...(rear brake locked maybe...)...

The 454's rear brake is awfully easy to over-adjust. The point between it being locked up and usable (at least on mine) is very fine. That whole "usable range" - or whatever they called it on the rear wheel - is not much of a guide. If you suspect the brake, jack it up and try to spin the wheel. The adjustor nut is a pain to turn (14mm, IRC), since it is on that long post, you can't use a ratchet.

--Dave

[honda750]

I'm afraid all of these ideas have checked out. I guess that's a good thing, but it means I still have NO idea what is causing this!!!
i'm changing the oil today

any more ideas!?!?!?!?!
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schrom plant

[safety-boy]

When you try to start, does it pull at all? Can you get any friction at all before it dies? Does it jerk a bit?

If either of these are happening:

You might need to adjust the clutch cable. At what point in letting out the clutch do you get friction? There are two places to adjust the cable on the 454 - at the clutch lever and at the gear box. If the cable is so loose that the lever has to be pulled all the way for the clutch to engage, it might be two quick on the release.

If neither is happening:

again...

Still might be the clutch cable. Try to determine where the clutch engages when you are rolling.

Is it jerky when you shift while rolling? A bike can be shifted with no clutch. I doubt the clutch on that bike it shot, but it depends on how the previous owner(s) rode it.

I did a writeup on adjusting the clutch cable for another thread. Will try to locate it. Maybe his problem had some commonality?

--Dave

[safety-boy]

From "Help... Basic Clutch adjustment"

Cleaned up my grammar a bit...

After my Kawasaki Vulcan 750 took a spill while going around cones the clutch has been out of adjustment somewhat.

[...]

The clutch makes an instantaneous, quick 1/2 second guteral sound upon starting out sometimes.

Typical Kawa clutch setup is an adjuster screw at the handle, and one where it meets the arm at the transmission. I have had three Kawasakis, a 2006, 2004 and 1986, all with the same cable setup (maybe not the 2006, as I have not been behind the fairing).

If I remember correctly, the tighter these adjusters are, the closer to full-open is where the friction point lies when pulling the lever. It is possible to have it so tight that the clutch is always engaged, or so loose that the handle has no effect.

At the handle, there should be a large metal wheel with a slot in it. This holds the cable in place. Closer to the handle, is a screw-on connection, like a coaxial cable for your TV. This is where you adjust at the handle.

At the transmission, it is on the right side[snip]. Look for an arm with a cable attached. If you follow that toward the front of the bike, there is the other adjuster (about an inch or two away from the clutch arm). It should have a accordion-like bit of rubber near it.

It adjust[s] at both end[s], in case one end is fully adjusted (fully tight, typically). Also a good failsafe in case your bike [is] old (like my '86) and one of the adjusters becomes fused.

[honda750]

the bike does not pull at all before it dies.
it just cuts out.

the clutch doesn't seem to be out of adjustment because it engages in the same place it has all along and when i ride it engages in the exact same place and works well...

Again, if i let it roll aand try it catches and i can then shift easily all the way home (30 mins)

i'm almost positive it's not the clutch cable but it very well could be something with the clutch inside.
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Big Brother Forum

[honda750]

the bike does not pull at all before it dies.
it just cuts out.

the clutch doesn't seem to be out of adjustment because it engages in the same place it has all along and when i ride it engages in the exact same place and works well...

Again, if i let it roll aand try it catches and i can then shift easily all the way home (30 mins)

i'm almost positive it's not the clutch cable but it very well could be something with the clutch inside.
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Disability insurance Forum

[roscowgo]

With it just cutting off i would look at something electronic. Maybe some inside sensor in the transmission. i dont know about that.

at this point all i can do is wish you good luck with it.

[BuzZz]

I think roscowgo is on the right track with the electronic angle.

It's really hard to pin down without actually riding the bike.... it's not something you run across with any regularity.....

He's also right about something else... Good Luck, Dude.