Suzuki PAIR valve removal kit

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NorthernPete · Sun Mar 18, 2007 7:24 am

higher advanced?

BuzZz · #12 Unread post by **BuzZz** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:58 am

NorthernPete wrote:higher advanced?

Nnnooo... he said 'much more higher advanced'.... cause I guess that's how experts speak. And they tend to use the sophisticated 'ur' instead of the more dumbed-down version 'you are', like the rest of us idjits.

I wish I was more higher education advanced like him. But I R not so higher smarter like his am.

Sev · #13 Unread post by **Sev** » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:15 pm

MotoF150 wrote:Mr Sev, ur right with most of what you said, but the exhaust gases flow back thru the PAIR valve into the air cleaner and are re-burned again to aid and lower emissions. The MAIN REASON why I installed the kit was to END my constant! backfire problem! The backfires were soooo violent that It was going to blow a hole thru my plastic air cleaner. Also my M50 looks better without that valve and that cheap plastic cover removed, but most important im very happy cause it ended my backfire problem, I never claim or notice any increase in engine performance. The kit is 2 metal cover plates, hose plugs, screws and hardware. I know everybody else that owns the same bikes have those backfires too and I wanta pass on this fix and information to help them out, plus its an added benifit that ur bike looks better with the PAIR valve removed. I also found a way of changing my FI by shorting out 2 wires at the ecu plug connector, but im not going to pass on that information cause of the risk of somebody making a mistake with the wrong wires and doing more harm to their bike.

Hahaha, no, no it doesn't. It dumps extra air into the exhaust which dilutes the polution and combined with the heat helps to detonate any gas that didn't get burned in the initial combustion.

The "exhaust" does not travel through the PAIR. And just so you know a reed valve only allows gases to pass through in one direction, in this case into the exhaust valve area of the cylinder head.

Meeeeethinks you need to learn about what you're talking about prior to attempting to teach people about it.

MotoF150 · #14 Unread post by **MotoF150** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 1:12 pm

I know what 2 wires to cut off my ecu connector plug to change the FI and you don't, na na ----- na ---- na

Sev · #15 Unread post by **Sev** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 2:13 pm

MotoF150 wrote:I know what 2 wires to cut off my ecu connector plug to change the FI and you don't, na na ----- na ---- na

I suggest you cut them all. It would save the community... NAY the world a lot of grief.

For everyone else's info. Should you decide to start cutting wires on your ECU you will do one of the following:

Kill the ignition completely
Disable the neutral light
Kill the spark at one or more of your plugs

Every wire is there for a reason, and none of them directly control the ignition timing, or affect how the FI is metered. Cutting just stops stuff from working.

flynrider · Mon Mar 19, 2007 2:28 pm

Wrider wrote: I took the whole thing off, plugged the two hoses with a spent .270 casing I had laying around... Yep, that's about it, you know what it cost me? 25 cents for the round... And that was already spent...

What a wuss! Real men like me (and Moto) plug our hoses with live rounds.

mgdavis · #17 Unread post by **mgdavis** » Mon Mar 19, 2007 3:42 pm

You know you can use a .22 round as a spare fuse, right.

SMITE · #18 Unread post by **SMITE** » Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:43 am

Sev is pretty much got it totally right, my little Suzuki V-twin,although maybe not as advanced as some harley-tractor clone has had the P.A.I.R valve removed,power commander installed and dynoed(dynod?) the dual injectors(per cylinder even!!) are injecting beautifully. Just my 0.02