Valve Adjustment

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Puyopop
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Valve Adjustment

#1 Unread post by Puyopop »

I was told by the last owner of my bike that the top end of the engine had been rebuilt, but it still needed a valve adjustment. I was wondering what are some of the noticeable symptoms of a bike that needs a valve adjustment? And what kind of damage could be done to a bike that needs one? thanks

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#2 Unread post by Johnj »

It depends how out of adjustment the valves are. I'd advise you to get them set.
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Re: Valve Adjustment

#3 Unread post by Skier »

Puyopop wrote:I was told by the last owner of my bike that the top end of the engine had been rebuilt, but it still needed a valve adjustment. I was wondering what are some of the noticeable symptoms of a bike that needs a valve adjustment? And what kind of damage could be done to a bike that needs one? thanks
You can melt valves, possibly introduce the piston to valve at high speed ($$$), backfire through the carbs/airbox, etc...

Take a few hours with a feeler gauge and see if they are out of spec. Well worth your time.
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#4 Unread post by Puyopop »

OK, so it definetly sounds like a good idea to get it done. Is it easy to check before performing the actual adjustment? just to make sure I actually need it? What do you think it would cost for a mechanic's labour to do the adjustment? I don't have the proper tools for the job.

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#5 Unread post by Johnj »

It depends on what kind of bike you've got. Some bikes are fairly easy to maintain and other bikes are expensive.
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#6 Unread post by flw »

Make sure your getting service from qualified service personnel. There are dealers with bad employee's but they have some standards were the local repair shop may or may not. If you know the local guy, he's most likely OK.

Dry rot and safety
Since the engine was rebuilt, I assume the bike is far from new. This brings me to rubber and dry rot. If not done in the past few years with receipts to prove it, you should be looking at replacing tires, brake lines, brake pads, flush brake fluid and mechanical brake cables. I include a inspection of drums, mechanical connections and any disks. You cannot be safe if you cannot stop or blow a tire at speed. Not cheap but its all part of a real rebuild.

If he cannot show you receipts, then doubt what looks like its only been detailed well.

Back to valves
Cost of not getting your valves checked seem to run from around 100 to 200 but that is very general. The real cost could be another new engine needed if you don't. While he is in the area you also might as well have some of the rubber replaced between the carbs and engine and any other vacuum lines. This include the neglected battery vent line, so you don't get acid on your nice redone bike.
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#7 Unread post by Puyopop »

Thanks that was very helpful, your correct in assuming the bike is older its an '87 ninja 250. I have already got to some of the things you said there such as I've already bought new tires, brake pads, and the disks are in good shape. I will have the mechanic look at some of the rubber in the area he's working. About the first comment I do trust this mechanic he's been good so far and he is local i know him fairly well thanks for the concern though.

Is it expensive to have the rubber engine components replaced?

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#8 Unread post by Skier »

Puyopop wrote:Is it expensive to have the rubber engine components replaced?
The only "rubber" or "rubber-ish" parts in the motor you would have to worry about are gaskets. If it's not pouring oil over your pants, don't worry about it. The post was talking about brake lines, tires and items along those lines.
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#9 Unread post by storysunfolding »

Check out this site
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Main_Page

Under FAQs->Engine-> How do I adjust teh valves.

It will run you through checking and setting the valves
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