DR-Z 250 Carb

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seandy · #1 Unread post by **seandy** » Sat Oct 06, 2007 8:27 am

O.K. After much screwing around with the spark plug, I decided to look in to the fuel system for the reason the thing wouldn't start. In my enthusiasm to clean the carb, I broke the leg that holds the pin that holds the float in place-totally irreparable. So, it looks as though I'll have to replace the carb. My question is, should I go back with stock or is there a better carb for this bike? It's a '06 or '07.

On another note, I like many of the posters on the forum, have a hard time with the local dealers. My wife bought this bike new for me for Christmas last year and it ran fine for about six weeks. I was only cranking it on the weekends. Then all of the sudden it wouldn't crank. I hadn't even run one full tank of fuel through it. I happened to be near the dealer one day, so I stopped in and the first thing out of the service guys mouth was that I had been letting the gas sit too long in the bike--as in, "this ain't a warranty problem bub." So, I knew right away my relationship with that dealer was done. Why are so many of these dealers jerk offs?

BuzZz · #2 Unread post by **BuzZz** » Sat Oct 06, 2007 11:56 am

Many dealers (like many other businesses) will find any excuse to avoid paying money, replacing parts or finding the real problem. They operate on a 'sell bikes, accessories, and customer paid service' basis because it pays now. These are bad dealers. Not all dealers are like that, but they do exist, just like any dealership, cars, trucks, boats, bikes whatever....

It does suck, but all you can do is find a dealer you can work with and if they can back your story, complain about the bad dealer to the manufacturer.

About your carb.... the easiest, cheapest way is to replace it with stock. Stock carbs are designed very well these days and designed to work with the engine tune and ignition. Any change to the carb would probably involve changes to other areas, like the exhaust, ignition or even cam timing, etc. Back in 'the old days', changing a carb on a dirtbike was more common, but things have advanced on the ol' technology front since then.

High_Side · #3 Unread post by **High_Side** » Sat Oct 06, 2007 5:09 pm

Your experience with your suzuki pretty much mirrors my own. I bought my son a JR50 last year and the float was sticking randomly the first time we had it out. After taking it back to the dealer and having them tell me that I put gas from a dirty can in it (funny how I filled it up at the pumps), and the carb was full of dirt. That will be $150 and move along. The float continued to randomly stick. After taking it apart, cleaning it, and trying to set the float height a couple of times I put a little bit of two-smoke oil in the gas (it has oil injection), and it appears that the problem is solved. Not a huge deal, but the dealer set the course for our "relationship" until the end of time.

seandy · #4 Unread post by **seandy** » Sun Oct 07, 2007 6:49 am

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll stick with a stock carb. Buzzz, you are right; it seems silly how some of these "businesses" aren't run like a business. My buddy wants to test ride a V-Strom 1000 and that same store won't service this brand new bike for him to take a spin on it. Crazy. So, same here Highside, relationship set for the course of time. I think I've found a good dealer, but it's over an hour from me!

Again, thanks to both of you!

crazypj · #5 Unread post by **crazypj** » Wed Oct 10, 2007 6:17 pm

Theres a guy on the single overhead cam forum who is using a laser to repair the float pin towers. You'll have to do a search and possibly join forum but it could save you a bunch of cash
http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php
PJ

seandy · #6 Unread post by **seandy** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 8:49 am

Thanks for the info crazy. I have found the guy here: http://www.jmfmicroweld.com/ I will let ya'll know what happens.