I had a student this past weekend in our beginner riding program. Who rode to the course on his "New to him" 2001 Goldwing 1800. The student only stood 5'11 and weighed in around the 225 mark. I am a believer that it is the rider that determines what makes a good starter bike. Someone who does not demonstrate good cluctch or throttle control may want to stay away from the SuperSports.jstark47 wrote:Sorry, just can't let that one lie. Your V-Star 1100 is 200 pounds lighter than a Vulcan Nomad. Nomad weighs 770 pounds. Dry. If that's acceptable as a beginner bike, then we might as well just toss the whole concept of "beginner bike" out the window. Might as well start on a Goldwing or an Ultra Classic - they're not very much heavier.mellis95 wrote:I personally don't think a 1600 is TOO big for a beginner. It all depends on you. My first bike was a V-Star 1100 and it was no problem at all.
I am new to riding, and have a lot of questions....
- RTR
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Personally I think my steel toes/shank have saved my foot at least once, possibly more.ofblong wrote:Steel toe IS NOT a boot you should consider EVER using to ride a motorcycle. Apparently you have never had something really really heavy fall on them. You have a greater chance of loosing your toes/feet with steal toe boots than you do with normal hiking boots. They are great for when you drop things like a 500lb motor on them but if you ever get run over by a 4 ton forklift you will find yourself without any toes.
For example I was going to take a right out of a parking lot, my boot got caught between the ground and my exhaust. It slightly bent the steel shank as it lifted the entire Volusia and me up off the ground. (Total of 850 lbs). Also, if you get run over by a 4 ton forklift without steel toes, you're not gonna have toes anyway! I have to say I recommend them. They're my work boots, my riding boots, and my school boots...
As for a first bike being that size... I started off relatively large (800 cruiser) and loved it. I am glad I didn't start off any bigger, and glad I didn't start off any smaller either.
Wrider
Have owned - 2001 Suzuki Volusia
Current bike - 2005 Kawasaki Z750S
MMI Graduation date January 9th, 2009. Factory Certifications in Suzuki and Yamaha
Current bike - 2005 Kawasaki Z750S
MMI Graduation date January 9th, 2009. Factory Certifications in Suzuki and Yamaha
- ofblong
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Well steel toes are also very ridgid when compared to riding boots thus less flexability (though at your age flexibility prob dont existWrider wrote:Personally I think my steel toes/shank have saved my foot at least once, possibly more.ofblong wrote:Steel toe IS NOT a boot you should consider EVER using to ride a motorcycle. Apparently you have never had something really really heavy fall on them. You have a greater chance of loosing your toes/feet with steal toe boots than you do with normal hiking boots. They are great for when you drop things like a 500lb motor on them but if you ever get run over by a 4 ton forklift you will find yourself without any toes.
For example I was going to take a right out of a parking lot, my boot got caught between the ground and my exhaust. It slightly bent the steel shank as it lifted the entire Volusia and me up off the ground. (Total of 850 lbs). Also, if you get run over by a 4 ton forklift without steel toes, you're not gonna have toes anyway! I have to say I recommend them. They're my work boots, my riding boots, and my school boots...
As for a first bike being that size... I started off relatively large (800 cruiser) and loved it. I am glad I didn't start off any bigger, and glad I didn't start off any smaller either.
Wrider


96' Honda Shadow Deluxe VLX
Dream bike: Ducati Multistrada 1100S
[img]http://hdbits.org/pic/smilies/hdlove.gif[/img]
Dream bike: Ducati Multistrada 1100S
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- sgtpepperlhcb2
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As far as getting a good deal on some new gear, I am a huge fan of leatherup.com. They have great prices and I have been hugely impressed with the quality of everything I've purchased. You could easily get a leather jacket w/ armor, gloves, and boots for around $250. They also have helmets (I would strongly suggest getting your first helmet at a retail store so you can get a proper fit as that is instrumental in the helmets effectiveness) and other gear and accessories, I have purchased many items from the site and have never been let down. As far as everything else goes, I would definitely have an experienced rider go with you to check whatever bike you are thinking about buying to make sure it is a safe, sound purchase. You don't want to drop large $$ on something that may run like crap or have a serious flaw that someone unfamiliar with motorcycles might not catch. Tax, title, license, and insurance are all going to vary depending on the bike you buy and the state you live in, so it is hard to give a good estimate without knowing more info. Hope this helps, Safe riding -- SP
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Lol that's just wrong!ofblong wrote:Well steel toes are also very ridgid when compared to riding boots thus less flexability (though at your age flexibility prob dont existWrider wrote:Personally I think my steel toes/shank have saved my foot at least once, possibly more.ofblong wrote:Steel toe IS NOT a boot you should consider EVER using to ride a motorcycle. Apparently you have never had something really really heavy fall on them. You have a greater chance of loosing your toes/feet with steal toe boots than you do with normal hiking boots. They are great for when you drop things like a 500lb motor on them but if you ever get run over by a 4 ton forklift you will find yourself without any toes.
For example I was going to take a right out of a parking lot, my boot got caught between the ground and my exhaust. It slightly bent the steel shank as it lifted the entire Volusia and me up off the ground. (Total of 850 lbs). Also, if you get run over by a 4 ton forklift without steel toes, you're not gonna have toes anyway! I have to say I recommend them. They're my work boots, my riding boots, and my school boots...
As for a first bike being that size... I started off relatively large (800 cruiser) and loved it. I am glad I didn't start off any bigger, and glad I didn't start off any smaller either.
Wrider)
. With that said what happens when you slip on the clutch because you didnt realize your foot slipped under it because the steel doesnt allow you to feel it.

Besides, they work well for making cagers' wallets pay for cutting you off!
Wrider
Have owned - 2001 Suzuki Volusia
Current bike - 2005 Kawasaki Z750S
MMI Graduation date January 9th, 2009. Factory Certifications in Suzuki and Yamaha
Current bike - 2005 Kawasaki Z750S
MMI Graduation date January 9th, 2009. Factory Certifications in Suzuki and Yamaha
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I agree with Wrider that if you get run over by any 4 ton vehicle you'll have much more to worry about than your toes, like snapping the large bones of your legs. Do you have any proof that "You have a greater chance of loosing your toes/feet with steal toe boots than you do with normal hiking boots."? Steel toed boots are regulated by the safety organizations of both the US and Canada. They are strong and protective by definitionofblong wrote:Steel toe IS NOT a boot you should consider EVER using to ride a motorcycle. Apparently you have never had something really really heavy fall on them. You have a greater chance of loosing your toes/feet with steal toe boots than you do with normal hiking boots. They are great for when you drop things like a 500lb motor on them but if you ever get run over by a 4 ton forklift you will find yourself without any toes.
If you don't have extra cash to splurge for MC specific riding boots, steel toed boots are fine. Sure they take getting used to but it can be done. I've never had any problem shifting or braking with steel toed boots, and in a crash I welcome the extra protection. When you are low on cash, any boot that protects your ankle good.ofblong wrote: Well steel toes are also very ridgid when compared to riding boots thus less flexability (though at your age flexibility prob dont exist) :twisted: . With that said what happens when you slip on the clutch because you didnt realize your foot slipped under it because the steel doesnt allow you to feel it.
- jonnythan
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If you get over by a 4 ton forklift you won't have any toes anyway.ofblong wrote:Steel toe IS NOT a boot you should consider EVER using to ride a motorcycle. Apparently you have never had something really really heavy fall on them. You have a greater chance of loosing your toes/feet with steal toe boots than you do with normal hiking boots. They are great for when you drop things like a 500lb motor on them but if you ever get run over by a 4 ton forklift you will find yourself without any toes.
You don't watch Mythbusters

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- ofblong
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hmm good point about the cagers cause you wont feel a thing. Well you might but I would muwhahaha sorry I couldnt resist lol. I know I know someday ill be that oldWrider wrote:Lol that's just wrong!ofblong wrote:Well steel toes are also very ridgid when compared to riding boots thus less flexability (though at your age flexibility prob dont existWrider wrote:Personally I think my steel toes/shank have saved my foot at least once, possibly more.ofblong wrote:Steel toe IS NOT a boot you should consider EVER using to ride a motorcycle. Apparently you have never had something really really heavy fall on them. You have a greater chance of loosing your toes/feet with steal toe boots than you do with normal hiking boots. They are great for when you drop things like a 500lb motor on them but if you ever get run over by a 4 ton forklift you will find yourself without any toes.
For example I was going to take a right out of a parking lot, my boot got caught between the ground and my exhaust. It slightly bent the steel shank as it lifted the entire Volusia and me up off the ground. (Total of 850 lbs). Also, if you get run over by a 4 ton forklift without steel toes, you're not gonna have toes anyway! I have to say I recommend them. They're my work boots, my riding boots, and my school boots...
As for a first bike being that size... I started off relatively large (800 cruiser) and loved it. I am glad I didn't start off any bigger, and glad I didn't start off any smaller either.
Wrider)
. With that said what happens when you slip on the clutch because you didnt realize your foot slipped under it because the steel doesnt allow you to feel it.
But no, what happened is I was trying to get out of a really steep driveway. The side of the driveway sloped up and the rough patch caught my boot as I was going to lift it... So even if I had tennis shoes on it would have caught... That's why I recommend it!
Besides, they work well for making cagers' wallets pay for cutting you off!
Wrider

96' Honda Shadow Deluxe VLX
Dream bike: Ducati Multistrada 1100S
[img]http://hdbits.org/pic/smilies/hdlove.gif[/img]
Dream bike: Ducati Multistrada 1100S
[img]http://hdbits.org/pic/smilies/hdlove.gif[/img]
- RhadamYgg
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Mythbusters pretty much disproved the losing toes/feet with steel toes.ofblong wrote:Steel toe IS NOT a boot you should consider EVER using to ride a motorcycle. Apparently you have never had something really really heavy fall on them. You have a greater chance of loosing your toes/feet with steal toe boots than you do with normal hiking boots. They are great for when you drop things like a 500lb motor on them but if you ever get run over by a 4 ton forklift you will find yourself without any toes.TorontoBoy wrote:Your jaw is a very important part of your anatomy, allowing you to bite and chew food. A full face helmet is required to protect it. Ingesting nourishment through a straw while recovering isn't very appealing to me. A FF helmet is also quieter, though I also advocate riding with earplugs: the wind noise over about 40mph/60kph can make you deaf over the long term.
As Bubba has said, you can start with simple gear and buy what you need when you have spare cash. Steel toe workboots (Walmart $50) that cover the ankle are sufficient. A mesh jacket with armour ($125). Leather gloves. FF helmet ($100). It doesn't have to be motorcycle specific gear, but comfort will increase if it is. You'll also need luggage, such as pannier bags, if you are commuting, but you can start with a backpack. You should also enrol in an MSF course. Take it slow, there's no rush. Biking need not and should not be expensive (unless you become a rabid rider/gear mean).
I'd recommend you get a used 250-500cc/650cc cruiser type bike as your first bike. They are much cheaper to purchase, less plastic parts to destroy in the event of a tipover, lighter, easier to learn how to ride, better on gas, and cheaper to insure. Check out this article by Chuck Hawkson beginner bikes. You should be able to get a used bike for under $2,000, gear for $400, add gas and go. A smaller bike means riding sooner or going into debt less or not at all. I strongly recommend not financing a motorcycle. Save up and pay cash.
There was a time when life was minimal and simple. Motorcycles fit right into that life philosophy with riders chopping unnecessary stuff off their rides, creating choppers. You could be that type of rider. Now you can get a Goldwing with a microwave oven so when your latte gets cool you can reheat it.
RhadamYgg
RhadamYgg / Skydiver / Motorbike Rider / Mountain Climber
FZ6/11302 mi|Suzuki B-King/5178 mi|Ninja 250cc/5300 mi| (rented)ST1300 850 mi
Hoping my kids don't hate me too much in the future.
Random 2003/Corwin 2006/Cordelia and Morrigan 2009
FZ6/11302 mi|Suzuki B-King/5178 mi|Ninja 250cc/5300 mi| (rented)ST1300 850 mi
Hoping my kids don't hate me too much in the future.
Random 2003/Corwin 2006/Cordelia and Morrigan 2009
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I have that episode taped, they did a great job disproving that myth.RhadamYgg wrote:Mythbusters pretty much disproved the losing toes/feet with steel toes.ofblong wrote:Steel toe IS NOT a boot you should consider EVER using to ride a motorcycle. Apparently you have never had something really really heavy fall on them. You have a greater chance of loosing your toes/feet with steal toe boots than you do with normal hiking boots. They are great for when you drop things like a 500lb motor on them but if you ever get run over by a 4 ton forklift you will find yourself without any toes.TorontoBoy wrote:Your jaw is a very important part of your anatomy, allowing you to bite and chew food. A full face helmet is required to protect it. Ingesting nourishment through a straw while recovering isn't very appealing to me. A FF helmet is also quieter, though I also advocate riding with earplugs: the wind noise over about 40mph/60kph can make you deaf over the long term.
As Bubba has said, you can start with simple gear and buy what you need when you have spare cash. Steel toe workboots (Walmart $50) that cover the ankle are sufficient. A mesh jacket with armour ($125). Leather gloves. FF helmet ($100). It doesn't have to be motorcycle specific gear, but comfort will increase if it is. You'll also need luggage, such as pannier bags, if you are commuting, but you can start with a backpack. You should also enrol in an MSF course. Take it slow, there's no rush. Biking need not and should not be expensive (unless you become a rabid rider/gear mean).
I'd recommend you get a used 250-500cc/650cc cruiser type bike as your first bike. They are much cheaper to purchase, less plastic parts to destroy in the event of a tipover, lighter, easier to learn how to ride, better on gas, and cheaper to insure. Check out this article by Chuck Hawkson beginner bikes. You should be able to get a used bike for under $2,000, gear for $400, add gas and go. A smaller bike means riding sooner or going into debt less or not at all. I strongly recommend not financing a motorcycle. Save up and pay cash.
There was a time when life was minimal and simple. Motorcycles fit right into that life philosophy with riders chopping unnecessary stuff off their rides, creating choppers. You could be that type of rider. Now you can get a Goldwing with a microwave oven so when your latte gets cool you can reheat it.
RhadamYgg
Ducati Monster 1100 (Vrooom!!)
Aprilia Shiver 750 (sold)
2007 Kawasaki Ninja 250cc (sold)
Aprilia Shiver 750 (sold)
2007 Kawasaki Ninja 250cc (sold)