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How much can you get bike dealerships down in price?

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Angelwings
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How much can you get bike dealerships down in price?

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#1 Post by Angelwings » Thu Sep 25, 2008 5:32 am

Are most motorcycle dealerships like car dealerships were you are going to get screwed off the bat? I am taking the MRC and asked my instructor and he said there's not much room to negotiate but when I look at the price some of the dealers are asking and the KBB of the bike there is at least $1000 difference. So what is your experience?

Thanks.
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Johnj
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#2 Post by Johnj » Thu Sep 25, 2008 6:08 am

I've never bought a bike from a dealer.
People say I'm stupid and apathetic. I don't know what that means, and I don't care.
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Always wear a helmet, eye protection, and protective clothing. Never ride under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
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Brackstone
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#3 Post by Brackstone » Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:16 am

One bike I bought was incredibly in demand
The other one is very rare

I was not able to negotiate any sort of discount on either bike.
Ducati Monster 1100 (Vrooom!!)
Aprilia Shiver 750 (sold)
2007 Kawasaki Ninja 250cc (sold)
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flynrider
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#4 Post by flynrider » Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:36 am

Bike dealers are like car dealers in that most will try to get you to part with as much money as possible. Negotiation is required, even if you are buying a bike at MSRP. Like car dealers, most bike dealers will come up with many inventive fees and extra charges.

As an example, I've been checking Craigslist for late model Kaw 250s (looking for a small in-town bike). Many of the sellers post how much their "out the door" price was, in order to justify their ridiculous asking prices. It's not unusual to see folks that paid upwards of 50% on top of the MSRP in fees and charges. They got hosed.

It depends on the bike and the dealer. Like Brackstone said, if it's a popular bike, you may get nothing off MSRP. The dealer knows he can sell it to the next guy that walks in. For unpopular bikes, like one that's been sitting in the showroom for most of the year, there should be room to negotiate. Every new bike I've ever bought fits the latter category and I was able to negotiate a good deal. Just remember that it doesn't matter what the dealer knocks off the base price, it's the out the door price that matters. Tax, title and license are generally not negotiable, but everything else is.
Bikin' John
'93 Honda CB750 Nighthawk
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Brackstone
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#5 Post by Brackstone » Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:48 am

flynrider wrote: For unpopular bikes, like one that's been sitting in the showroom for most of the year, there should be room to negotiate.
I'm glad I read this because it reminded me of something.

When I was thinking about getting the Ducati 696 the dealer tried to tell me a 695 that had been sitting "on the lot" for a while. They were willing to basically take $1k off the price right off the bat.
Ducati Monster 1100 (Vrooom!!)
Aprilia Shiver 750 (sold)
2007 Kawasaki Ninja 250cc (sold)
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jstark47
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#6 Post by jstark47 » Thu Sep 25, 2008 2:31 pm

Brackstone wrote:
flynrider wrote: For unpopular bikes, like one that's been sitting in the showroom for most of the year, there should be room to negotiate.
I'm glad I read this because it reminded me of something.

When I was thinking about getting the Ducati 696 the dealer tried to tell me a 695 that had been sitting "on the lot" for a while. They were willing to basically take $1k off the price right off the bat.
Yep, that's how I bought my V-strom. It is a 2005 model, I bought it in November 2006, it had been in the showroom a long time and they were anxious to sell it. They took $1100 off the price. If you're lucky you can be in the right place at the right time and pick up a deal.
2003 Triumph Trophy 1200
2009 BMW F650GS (wife's)
2012 Triumph Tiger 800
2018 Yamaha XT250 (wife's)
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johbren
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#7 Post by johbren » Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:15 am

The last two bike I bought were bought at the height of the riding season one in late April and one in early June. Both were of the year that I bought them in other words no left overs from the previous year. One was a 650 Yamaha custom for my wife the other was a Suzuki c50 for me. I paid Msrp for both bike out the door that include tax title everything.
07 c50=Husband
08 650 custom=wife
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Talus
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#8 Post by Talus » Fri Oct 10, 2008 12:29 am

I ended up getting mine at MSRP due to modifications placed on the bike and the M50s seem to go quickly in Memphis, so there is not much room for negotiation. Here are some general thoughts and specific thoughts about my M50.

2008 Boulevard M50

List Price: $6899 (Black)
List Price: $6999
Dealer Cost: $5952 (Black)
Dealer Cost: $6035
Dealer cost price includes $225 freight charge for shipping from the manufacturer to the dealership.

Assembly Cost: $50 per Suzuki dealer price sheet
Each dealership has its own method of figuring the actual cost of assembly and preparation for sale.

Ready to Sell Cost: $6002 (Black)
Ready to Sell Cost: $6085

Dealer Holdback: This Suzuki has 5% (of list price) dealer holdback.
Holdback money is paid to Suzuki dealers in February for units sold between July 1 and December 31 and in September for units sold between January 1 and June 30. Dealers must pay Suzuki the full "Dealer Cost" price and wait 1 to 6 months after selling the machine to receive their dealer holdback.

Wholesale Incentives: July 1 - September 30, 2008 - $150 manufacturer to dealer marketing incentive. Subtract from Ready to Sell Cost.

Retail Incentives: none for this model

The "Ready to sell cost" is the cost of the machine with NO PROFIT to a dealer. Dealers do not stay in business very long by selling machines for no profit.
Many dealers charge additional fees for "Freight and Setup" over and above the selling price of the machine. Add the "Selling Price" to the "Freight and Setup" charges and subtract the "Ready to sell cost" to determine the PROFIT a dealer is asking to make.
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captinamerica
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everything is negotiable.

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#9 Post by captinamerica » Sat Oct 11, 2008 2:27 am

This is what i do.First wait for the write time. and find out about the way they do buisness like shipping and settup. how and how much the sales man is paid and additionals such as T.T.and L. charges. Then bring cash, and a friend. I ride with the friend in their truck. WE walk in and start going over the bikes like two antiques Judges,and when the sales man walks over and asks may I help you. i say give me a minute.(when i do this i all ready know that i want the bike)Then i stand and talk with my friend about the bike along with some of the other bikes we like. While i am talking to to him I look to see if the sales man is looking if he is I stick my hand in my pocket and slide my cash out a little like not all the way out but enought to see how much is there and then back in my pocket it goes. as if i really didnt want anyone to see. then i walk over to the sales man then to his desk he will follow.but I lead always and when I am talking I never break eye contact.(remember there is a fine line between being a jerk and a likeable leader like your Sgt. in the army. the idea is you lead. But be friendly and just slightly intimidating. Like you your dads big scary friend. Who is to friendly to really be scared of, but you have reservations.) .Feal free to break eye contact when he is talking. Then I look at him and say how much?. He starts by quoting the sticker or tag. I say "I saw the tag.'' Now how much?'' I am going to be riding a bike today and stick my hand in the cash pocket. They should start dealing then. If not go to another sales man in the same shop. Just walk away to another sales man. They may have a standard deal they give,but dont get discouraged. If they will not deal someone in another shop will. (Remember to be ready to sweetin the deal with accesories or services). you may not be able to get the disscount you would like but you can ussually get some goodies like bike covers, t-shirts, glasses, free oil changes, and extended warantees along with a discounted price.
plan the work then work the plan captain america
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cruiserV
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Buying a new bike

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#10 Post by cruiserV » Sat Oct 11, 2008 5:00 am

A strategy that works most of the time is wait till the last week of the month to buy. At that time, salespeople are scrambling to get their numbers up for the month, and may be willing to deal more. I never pay sticker price unless some serious goodies are thrown in the deal. When you drive off, you should have all those things mounted that you would have to add, crash bars, highway pegs, bags, windshield, etc. Now, a dealer HAS to make a profit to stay in business, but he need not make a living off each sale. Start your negotiation with " Remember, half a hog is better than no hog at all".
I just got used to yesterday, then today showed up..
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