Can a guru please explain for me?
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BuzZz
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Sorry I missed this guys....
C.D.I. = Capacitor Discharge Ignition
Basically a series of magnets on the flywheel rotate past a series of wound coils when the engine is turned over with the kickstarter. Or the magnet/coil arrangement could be reversed, whatever, same result. A small electrical charge is generated and stored in a Capacitor. A Hall Effect trigger is also mounted on the flywheel and when it passes by a stationary pick-up mounted in the engine cases around the flywheel, that stored power is sent off to the coil, and the coil does it's coily-thing and makes big sparks at the plug, all timed correctly by position of the trigger and pick-up, with spark advance built in by RPM sensitive delays biult into the pick-up or the CDI box. If everything is working.
When you changed the CDI, what part did you change? The CDI box (some sort of smallish plastic case with wires coming out, some of which plug into a lead coming from someplace around the flywheel, and a set going to the coil) is susceptible to Death By Welding, that timing advance circuitry gets fryed or the capacitor overcharges and blows. The Pick-up is usually tougher to toast, but it is not impossible..... same with the coil. The trigger is just a raised lump of metal or a magnet, so no issue. Also.... most coils are grounded through their mounting tabs to the frame, so that would be your missing ignition ground... I mean 'earth'.... yous not from 'round these here parts, is ya?
Kickstarters don't really slip. They can not engage properly, but that is a gear engagement-thing. On the other end of that shaft the kickstarter is bolted to, is a spring and gear very much like the ones on an electric starter bendix, if you ever seen one of those, just sprung lighter for human power and speeds. If you don't allow the lever to come back to it's full kick position, or you only kick half way, the engage/disengage operation inside the cases can get out of time and the gears don't mesh. It also happens when the kickstarter is being flailed at wildly at high strokes per minute and short periods of time.... something I bet you're familiar with watching the boy, eh?
You need to check your whole system and get you some spark. A service manual would have a guide on what to test and where to test it and what to test for. Finding one for that bike.... here it would be hopeless, where ever you are, I don't know. You say you found a CDI to replace yours? Try whereever you got that for a service manual, maybe.....
Brass Tacks?.... I think you got one of the 'new' Chinese bikes flooding the department stores and auto part shops here....... they ain't worth fixing IMHO. Not to me anyways, some people want to try for whatever reason, and some even succeed, but they mostly live in Asia. If you want to try, no harm in it, but get used to it. You will be doing alot of it.
Good luck, friend.
<------ this helps.....
C.D.I. = Capacitor Discharge Ignition
Basically a series of magnets on the flywheel rotate past a series of wound coils when the engine is turned over with the kickstarter. Or the magnet/coil arrangement could be reversed, whatever, same result. A small electrical charge is generated and stored in a Capacitor. A Hall Effect trigger is also mounted on the flywheel and when it passes by a stationary pick-up mounted in the engine cases around the flywheel, that stored power is sent off to the coil, and the coil does it's coily-thing and makes big sparks at the plug, all timed correctly by position of the trigger and pick-up, with spark advance built in by RPM sensitive delays biult into the pick-up or the CDI box. If everything is working.
When you changed the CDI, what part did you change? The CDI box (some sort of smallish plastic case with wires coming out, some of which plug into a lead coming from someplace around the flywheel, and a set going to the coil) is susceptible to Death By Welding, that timing advance circuitry gets fryed or the capacitor overcharges and blows. The Pick-up is usually tougher to toast, but it is not impossible..... same with the coil. The trigger is just a raised lump of metal or a magnet, so no issue. Also.... most coils are grounded through their mounting tabs to the frame, so that would be your missing ignition ground... I mean 'earth'.... yous not from 'round these here parts, is ya?
Kickstarters don't really slip. They can not engage properly, but that is a gear engagement-thing. On the other end of that shaft the kickstarter is bolted to, is a spring and gear very much like the ones on an electric starter bendix, if you ever seen one of those, just sprung lighter for human power and speeds. If you don't allow the lever to come back to it's full kick position, or you only kick half way, the engage/disengage operation inside the cases can get out of time and the gears don't mesh. It also happens when the kickstarter is being flailed at wildly at high strokes per minute and short periods of time.... something I bet you're familiar with watching the boy, eh?
You need to check your whole system and get you some spark. A service manual would have a guide on what to test and where to test it and what to test for. Finding one for that bike.... here it would be hopeless, where ever you are, I don't know. You say you found a CDI to replace yours? Try whereever you got that for a service manual, maybe.....
Brass Tacks?.... I think you got one of the 'new' Chinese bikes flooding the department stores and auto part shops here....... they ain't worth fixing IMHO. Not to me anyways, some people want to try for whatever reason, and some even succeed, but they mostly live in Asia. If you want to try, no harm in it, but get used to it. You will be doing alot of it.
Good luck, friend.
<------ this helps.....No Witnesses.... 