Throttle snap back/lubing/rust Questions .. '80 Honda CM400E
Throttle snap back/lubing/rust Questions .. '80 Honda CM400E
I just bought my first bike. A 1980 Honda CM400E with 7500 miles. I have a few questions...
1. The throttle does not snap back on its own. It works fine when I control it manually in both directions. Neither spring is missing near the carbs although maybe they are too weak now? I pulled off the grip and dismantled the handlebar control assembly. The plastic sleave of the throttle seemed to slide smoothly around the metal handlebar so I don't think this is the problem. What do ya'll think the problem could be? Can I fix this myself with a manual and very basic mechanical experience? If I had a mechanic do it what might it run me?
2. I don't know what kind of lube the PO used on the chain and wires and other components that need lubing. Do I need to be afraid that the lube I buy is incompatible with what is already on there? Is it ok to use chain wax on a chain that has oil? Is it ok to use chain oil on a chain that has been waxed? Which do ya'll think is better? Any tips on how to do best lube my chain? Any other lubing wisdom you care to share?
3. There is some minor/moderate rust in various locations on the bike. The frame going back to the rear wheel has some of the worst. I assume all I need to do there is sand, grind away all the rust, prime and repaint with a nice black. What kind of paint should I use, laquer/acrylic? There is also some rust spotting on some chrome pieces. How do I best attend this problem for the purpose of halting more rusting and also maintaining the value of my bike for when I go to resell it?
4. With zero throttle in 1st gear my bike idles at 8mph, is this too high?
5. I want the bike to be safe, but I don't have a lot of money. I am willing to put in the time to do as much as I can myself with a fair selection of tools. What more can I do and what do I need to have a mechanic do so I know that my bike is really road safe.
Thank you so much for your help!
1. The throttle does not snap back on its own. It works fine when I control it manually in both directions. Neither spring is missing near the carbs although maybe they are too weak now? I pulled off the grip and dismantled the handlebar control assembly. The plastic sleave of the throttle seemed to slide smoothly around the metal handlebar so I don't think this is the problem. What do ya'll think the problem could be? Can I fix this myself with a manual and very basic mechanical experience? If I had a mechanic do it what might it run me?
2. I don't know what kind of lube the PO used on the chain and wires and other components that need lubing. Do I need to be afraid that the lube I buy is incompatible with what is already on there? Is it ok to use chain wax on a chain that has oil? Is it ok to use chain oil on a chain that has been waxed? Which do ya'll think is better? Any tips on how to do best lube my chain? Any other lubing wisdom you care to share?
3. There is some minor/moderate rust in various locations on the bike. The frame going back to the rear wheel has some of the worst. I assume all I need to do there is sand, grind away all the rust, prime and repaint with a nice black. What kind of paint should I use, laquer/acrylic? There is also some rust spotting on some chrome pieces. How do I best attend this problem for the purpose of halting more rusting and also maintaining the value of my bike for when I go to resell it?
4. With zero throttle in 1st gear my bike idles at 8mph, is this too high?
5. I want the bike to be safe, but I don't have a lot of money. I am willing to put in the time to do as much as I can myself with a fair selection of tools. What more can I do and what do I need to have a mechanic do so I know that my bike is really road safe.
Thank you so much for your help!
I think your throttle cables needs lube (wd-40) run through the inside of the cable casing. Also check that the butterfly shaft is free. Hope this helps.
1993 750 Vulcan
one seater
ear shave, pod filters
rear turn signal relocation
lowered rear 2" soft tail
converted to manuel cam chain tensioner
horn relocation
one seater
ear shave, pod filters
rear turn signal relocation
lowered rear 2" soft tail
converted to manuel cam chain tensioner
horn relocation
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if you have an old sparkplug wire off a car take the boot off it that goes on the sparkplug and slip it over the cable.take a small hose clamp and put around the boot to seal it to the cable.tie it in the upright position and fill the boot up with wd40.when it runs through the cable fill it up with engine oil until it runs out the bottom of cable.
dr bob
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Cable Lubing for Cheapazzez...
Take one heavy plastic sandwich bag. Cut one corne off leaving a hole just big enough to slip the cable-end through. Slip cable through. Tape bag to cable securely and tightly, leaving the outer housing exposed in the bag. Pour a small amount of oil or whatever lube you have choosen into the bag and cover the cable end in the bag with the lube level. Close the top of the bag with a twist and sqeeze the lube down the cable until it comes out the opposite end of the cable. Remove the bag/tape and wipe the cable clean.
Bob's yer Uncle..... and he owes me $5.
Take one heavy plastic sandwich bag. Cut one corne off leaving a hole just big enough to slip the cable-end through. Slip cable through. Tape bag to cable securely and tightly, leaving the outer housing exposed in the bag. Pour a small amount of oil or whatever lube you have choosen into the bag and cover the cable end in the bag with the lube level. Close the top of the bag with a twist and sqeeze the lube down the cable until it comes out the opposite end of the cable. Remove the bag/tape and wipe the cable clean.
Bob's yer Uncle..... and he owes me $5.
No Witnesses.... 

Thanks for the great cable lubing tips!
Exuse if its a really dumb question, but do I have to take the cable all the way out to do this? It's pretty well in there behind the carbs so I guess I would have to take those off too...I ordered my Clymers service/repair manual but it won't get here for another 10 days and I can't wait that long!
Exuse if its a really dumb question, but do I have to take the cable all the way out to do this? It's pretty well in there behind the carbs so I guess I would have to take those off too...I ordered my Clymers service/repair manual but it won't get here for another 10 days and I can't wait that long!