Not more Carb Tuning!

[shoey949]

Well still playing around with my Cl 350 Stock jets are supposed to be 115 and 60. I'm using 105 and 60. The bike still doesn' pull hard all the way to the redline it seems to kind of loose power around 8500 RPMs. Grand rapids is 800 feet above sea level and is 70 degrees F right now. SO I can't see weather affecting it that much. The valve timing is on and Ignition timing is dead on at 1200 RPM. Could this just be carb sychronization, or just advancing the timing a hair or do I need to get smaller jets? I just don't see how the stock can be so off.

Thanks once again,
Nate

[TechTMW]

You are running lean at WOT. Do NOT advance the timing, this will lean it out more. You two best choices are either live with it, or step up the main jet a notch. An 8500 rpm dropoff may be worked into the stock powerband also - I know an XJ650 typically has a hole in the powerband after about 7000 rpm.

[shoey949]

Well ran the bike with the stock 60s and 115s, with standard heat spark plug, standard timing all that back to factory settings. I ride the bike for about five minutes, it starts bogging at 5k and the plugs foul, and I have to walk the bike home, I'm about ready to give up on this thing. I'm getting back to a possible weak spark. But that would have an effect on high rpm power would it?

[Quick 350]

Shoey don't give up I know it gets frustrating but once these bikes are set right they are tons of fun and don't require fiddling every time you ride.

Once again I stress to check the condition of your exhaust. these bike don't like

air gaps around header flanges or else where on the pipes
rust and carbon build up inside the of pipes or headers

the CL exhaust where the worst and had the most problems. does your exhaust still have the muffler box towards the end of the pipes. If so this is the most problem area and a common fix is to remove and add after market singles at the end.

Most people have given up on the CL pipes and just gone for a set of CB pipes and headers.

as for some other specs straight from Hondas repair manual.

Float Height= .083

Breaker points gap= .012 - .016 ( are the points original or after market if the spring rate is less then required then the points will float at mid RPMS and couse weak spark)

Pilot Jet= 38

Main Jet= primary 60
secondary 115

You might want to check the Rectifier these have been known to cause many different problems when gone bad.

Here is a link to a guy that makes a fail proff replacement that many people rave about. Especially since Honda no longer makes Rectifiers.
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/

Synchronizing the carbs is a good idea no mater what. If you don't have a kit then use this method I tried it and it works great.
viewtopic.php?t=746

Good Luck!!! and post back. "DON'T GIVE UP"

Mike

[shoey949]

the more and more I think about this issue I feel that it is an electrical problem, and a weak spark, and I stumbled across this:

http://www.kzrider.com/ignition_upgrade.shtml

What are your opinions?

[Quick 350]

Definitely worth trying.

I did that same set up on a 1977 Kawasaki KE 175 I had and it worked.

Now on your Honda if this works out then most likely it's the rectifier.

Good Luck!

Mike

[shoey949]

well yea, but by doing this I'll surpass that part of the electrical system, right?
How much do those automotive relays run for?

[BuzZz]

Them relays are cheap and plentiful. Cheap quality ones can be had for $5, good ones less than $20. You may have one already. Most accessories for cages that require a switch come with one... driving lights, cell phone power kits, battery-pump-compressor-tank selector switches.... I have 6-7 kicking around the house right now from various pieces of junk over the years.....

[TechTMW]

That's actually a Very good idea. Those relays are EVERYWHERE btw. If you are cheap like me and have a U-Pull-It auto junkyard in the area you can get handfuls of those off of many models of cars ... look in or around the fuse box.