Removing sheared exhaust bolts

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#1 Unread post by **Skier** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 3:35 pm

Pulled the exhaust off my Katana and three of the eight bolts sheared off in the head. I have a decent amount of access to them but am unsure how to go about removing those remnants. I've actually never sheared off a bolt befoe, so I am awfully lost on this. My current idea was to heat it up with a torch and tap in an EZ-out or something. Maybe drilling a hole in it, JBwelding a small bolt into it and then heat it up and try removing it that way. Any ideas for me?

niterider · #2 Unread post by **niterider** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 4:49 pm

If you are not in a big hurry to remove them, spray them with wd-40 over and over a few days, tap on the broken bolt and if you have enough bolt left use a pair of vise grips or small pipe wrench and work the bolt back and forth. Keep spraying as you work the bolt. I don't have a torch so I can not tell if that is the way to go. Hope that you are able to remove them, it is a job.

#3 Unread post by **Skier** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 6:26 pm

Yeah... they're all snapped flush to the head. I'm hoping I can get an EZ-out in there.

BuzZz · #4 Unread post by **BuzZz** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 7:48 pm

Your going to have to drill them to get an ez-out in there, so get a lefthand drillbit and with the soaking and what-not, you may get lucky on a few of them. Even if you don't take any out with the drill bit, your no farther behind the ball than before and you can work the ez-outs from there.

#5 Unread post by **Skier** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 11:04 am

Alright, picked up a bolt extractor kit from Sears. Looks to be a combination of a left-handed drillbit and an EZ-out. You drill in (CCW) for a bit, tighten a collar down into the bolt that looks like an EZ-out, then drill in more and pull out.

The diagram makes it look easy.

I'll be soaking the bolts in PB Blaster, tapping them with a pointy thing and a hammer, then spraying again, for the next day or so. Then I'll get the bolts real hot and go to town.

kar_the_terrible · Sat Apr 01, 2006 11:07 am

if you have access to the nut rather than the bolt. You might want to try using a nut splitter. Sears has them for under 20 bucks. It is however a destructive method in that you will have to get a new nut (Bolt might survive though).

K

#7 Unread post by **Skier** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 1:32 pm

kar_the_terrible wrote:if you have access to the nut rather than the bolt. You might want to try using a nut splitter. Sears has them for under 20 bucks. It is however a destructive method in that you will have to get a new nut (Bolt might survive though).

K

Yep, I have access to the nuts... they're sitting on my workbench while the threaded part resides in my cylinder head.

As for my attempts, well, I shattered two of the Sears parts trying to remove one bolt. Been drilling away with my masonry bits at the last two bolts so I can get a screw extractor in there, but no luck so far. I'm probably going to cut my losses, pull the head and have someone else do it.