performance mods

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JCS
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#11 Unread post by JCS »

Now add up the $$$ factor for the mods. Exhaust, filters and jetting. Add in the labor if you don't feel confident doing it yourself. Remember for the jetting you will be removing and dis-assembling the carbs.

Now how much extra power are you actually going to achieve for the money?

Also keep in the back of your mind that anytime you perform these mods that your fuel mileage is going to go down.

Are you at the point of using everything that the bike has to offer now?

You may be way ahead to look at suspension or brake mods before you look at performance mods.
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#12 Unread post by J.R. Bob Dobbs »

I believe the most significant performance gains can come from the cheapest modification: a smaller front sprocket.

I changed both sprockets on my 95 cb750 and it really made a difference. Amazingly the mileage hasn't changed a bit, and I generally ride it at higher revs and rarely ever use 5th.

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#13 Unread post by Dirtytoes »

J.R. Bob Dobbs wrote:I believe the most significant performance gains can come from the cheapest modification: a smaller front sprocket.

I changed both sprockets on my 95 cb750 and it really made a difference. Amazingly the mileage hasn't changed a bit, and I generally ride it at higher revs and rarely ever use 5th.
how much are a good set of sprockets?

so i'd go down like 2 teeth in the front and go up 2 in the back? is there a downside in going too high in the back and too low in the front?

would i need a new chain too?
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#14 Unread post by jmillheiser »

on the EX500 I would probably just drop a tooth in the front, this should help its acceleration quite a bit but still be tolerable on the highway.

If you want a more aggressive sound get either the muzzy or V&H system and rejet accordingly dont expect much power gain. Gearing it down will produce better results.

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#15 Unread post by BigChickenStrips »

the cheapest and easiest way to gain serious Horsepower and torque is to sell this bike and get a bigger one.
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#16 Unread post by Dirtytoes »

HandsomeRyan wrote:the cheapest and easiest way to gain serious Horsepower and torque is to sell this bike and get a bigger one.
cheapest?! are you kidding? besides...anything over a 500 is too much for me...i'm happy with what it has to offer, but since i'm gonna be "trying" to do some of the maintanance by my self. i thought itd be a good idea to do some mods as well.
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#17 Unread post by J.R. Bob Dobbs »

I got my Nighthawk's sprockets online from Sprocket Specialists www.sprocketspecialists.com I think thats their address, total was $65 delivered. I went down a tooth on the front and up a tooth on the rear.

Changing the rear is alot more work, I wouldn't recommend it unless you're an experienced wrencher, but changing the front is easy and has more effect. My chain was almost new so I didn't replace it.

Dropping just the front by a tooth will raise rear-wheel force and engine rpm by about 7%, depending on how many teeth the original has. The formula: (old sprocket tooth count / new sprocket tooth count) will give you the exact amount to expect.

Edit: I should add that I've never touched a Ninja, it may or may not be harder to do the front sprocket than on my Nighthawk. Either way changing the rear is going to be much more work for less result.

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#18 Unread post by Dirtytoes »

J.R. Bob Dobbs wrote:I got my Nighthawk's sprockets online from Sprocket Specialists www.sprocketspecialists.com I think thats their address, total was $65 delivered. I went down a tooth on the front and up a tooth on the rear.

Changing the rear is alot more work, I wouldn't recommend it unless you're an experienced wrencher, but changing the front is easy and has more effect. My chain was almost new so I didn't replace it.

Dropping just the front by a tooth will raise rear-wheel force and engine rpm by about 7%, depending on how many teeth the original has. The formula: (old sprocket tooth count / new sprocket tooth count) will give you the exact amount to expect.

Edit: I should add that I've never touched a Ninja, it may or may not be harder to do the front sprocket than on my Nighthawk. Either way changing the rear is going to be much more work for less result.
they range from like $8.99 to $94.99...what to choose, what to choose.....they have like 3-4 different types like regular aluminium..e.tc...etc....which is best for sprockets?
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#19 Unread post by JCS »

For street go with steel sprockets. Aluminum is lighter but does not last near as long as steel.
Also, be careful about dropping more than one tooth on the front. If you make the chain bend too tightly it will cause much faster chain wear. If you are going to do major gear changes do it on the rear sprocket. They are more expensive but the chain lasts longer. If you change it much you may have to go to a different length chain.
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#20 Unread post by Dirtytoes »

JCS wrote:For street go with steel sprockets. Aluminum is lighter but does not last near as long as steel.
/quote]

which one is best?...(on that site)

link lock
hot slot
or Ultra lite ?
JCS wrote: Also, be careful about dropping more than one tooth on the front. If you make the chain bend too tightly it will cause much faster chain wear.
if i just want to get the most torque or power out of the bike as possible....without damaging the chain or damagin anything else, or losing anything else on the bike..what configuration do you recommend? (i.e 1 down...2 up..?)
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