
So, who uses non-motorcycle oil in their bikes?
- poppygene
- Legendary 500
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My motor is an old-school, air-cooled in-line four that puts off an enormous amount of heat. No kidding - you could grill a side of beef on that sucker while wating for a light to change green! Well, yeah... that's an exaggeration, but it's the hottest running bike I've ever ridden. Or, at least it was... until I changed over to a full-synthetic oil. I never notice the heat any more, except on the very hottest days of summer. I'll admit this is all very un-scientific, but I don't mind paying the premium for synthetic oil. I figure less heat = less friction = longer engine life.


Let me get this straight... it's one down and four up, right?
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- totalmotorcycle
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I know one mechanic who uses regular Penzoil 10w40 automotive oil in all the bikes he works on and they all seemed to be running fine with it.
I use generic (Motomaster brand) 10w40 and 20w50 motorcycle oil in all my motorcycles I've ever owned and now in my wife's Honda as well with no problems. My 1982 Yamaha Seca likes 20w50 but when its cold out and I use 10w40 it doesn't shift as smoothly...
The Motomaster motorcycle oil is actually cheaper ($1.64 a litre/quart) then cheap automotive oil ($1.84)!! But I did research on it and found out it is actually Shell Formula 1 oil.
Mike.
I use generic (Motomaster brand) 10w40 and 20w50 motorcycle oil in all my motorcycles I've ever owned and now in my wife's Honda as well with no problems. My 1982 Yamaha Seca likes 20w50 but when its cold out and I use 10w40 it doesn't shift as smoothly...
The Motomaster motorcycle oil is actually cheaper ($1.64 a litre/quart) then cheap automotive oil ($1.84)!! But I did research on it and found out it is actually Shell Formula 1 oil.
Mike.
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after reading all the stuff about the benefits of synthetic oil i performed a highly technical experiment-i have got a yamaha 125 4 stroke scooter[what??only sissies ride scooters??i'll make you think sissies BANG!]...anyhow i run 10w40 in it--any premium brand--i let it warm up to operating temp then turned the idle screw out until it quit running--i then changed the oil to shell rotella 5w40 synthetic cranked it up and it ran without adjusting the idle screw.my 82 v45 sabre shifts much easier with synthetic too.
dr bob
- JJ
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WHAT ABOUT FILTER?
Is there a filter guide out there for what is interchangeable between bikes and cars? Bike dealers want way to much for what I think is most likely the same thing. A couple of bucks at Walmart vs 10+ dollars at the dealer can add up if you change your filter often
JJ
JJ
Look for me at the next bike rally
middle aged, fat, black T-shirt & jeans
Easy to spot eh?
middle aged, fat, black T-shirt & jeans
Easy to spot eh?
I've tried just about every kind of oil from OEM to just plain ol 10W40 automotive oil. My current bike (78 GL10000) seems to like plain ol 10W40 Valvoline from the auto parts store better than any other. Quieter and shifts better with that than even the Honda oil recommended for it. I have never had any wet clutch issues using auto oil either. I don't ride real hard and that may have a lot to do with it but it seems to work fine for me. Also a lot cheaper, $1.39 a quart as opposed to $3.00+ for motorcycle oil. I think the secret to oil is changing it frequently, 1500 - 2000 miles.
Live it like you mean it, this ain't no dress rehearsal!
Max
Max
- oldnslo
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If you care a whit about your engine, you will use a filter designed for that engine. Doing the sub thing to save a couple bucks is a gross example of false economy. Pony up and do it right. On the other hand, you could go ahead and use that Hundai filter and wait for the music from the rod bearings just before the drum solo as the rods exit the side of the block......go ahead, live on the edge.......
John
"83 XJ900RK
IT'S ABOUT OIL, MONEY, AND POWER, ALL OF THE TIME.
"83 XJ900RK
IT'S ABOUT OIL, MONEY, AND POWER, ALL OF THE TIME.
- Skier
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I'd honestly feel perfectly fine throwing on a quality Wix/NAPA Gold car oil filter on my bike. But since I don't have a screw-on type, I just go for the Wix donut filteroldnslo wrote:If you care a whit about your engine, you will use a filter designed for that engine. Doing the sub thing to save a couple bucks is a gross example of false economy. Pony up and do it right. On the other hand, you could go ahead and use that Hundai filter and wait for the music from the rod bearings just before the drum solo as the rods exit the side of the block......go ahead, live on the edge.......
[url=http://www.motoblag.com/blag/]Practicing the dark and forgotten art of using turn signals since '98.[/url]
- ronboskz650sr
- Legendary 750
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I use Rottella T 15w-40 by Shell. It is formulated for diesel engines, and has no energy efficiency additives to make the clutch slip, like some auto oils. Like Buzz said...change it! That's the real big deal.
Some guys with older bikes like mine say their gaskets developed leaks when they switched to synthetic oil, due to some softening in areas about to crack or something. I can't confirm, or deny that, since I use the rotella, but I pass it on to guys with older bikes for their inputs on this.
Some guys with older bikes like mine say their gaskets developed leaks when they switched to synthetic oil, due to some softening in areas about to crack or something. I can't confirm, or deny that, since I use the rotella, but I pass it on to guys with older bikes for their inputs on this.
Ride safe...God bless!
-Ron
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-Ron
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