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So let me get clear on this, you sand the final coat of clear and then polish? Thats all? I know orangepeel isn't desired of course, yet won't the clear be scratched up on that final bit of sanding? This kind of painting is a little foreign to me so please bear with me.

I thought the final coat of clear would be uniform enough and then you polish if you want. Does the final sanding give the depth desired to the finish when buffed?

I've been trying to answer your question for nearly an hour...computer problems. I'll keep trying in a little while.

Okay, use 1000 grit, followed by 1500 grit (both wet) on the clearcoat before buffing. The reason for 3-5 coats of clear is to allow one or more coats to be removed for a super smooth surface before buffing. The buffing restores the shine by polishing the paint particles back together and bringing the oils back to the surface. The smoother that surface is, the deeper the gloss will be. Here's a tank partially buffed and partially wetsanded...

You can see the suburban wheel in the background, me in the silouette, and grass in the sanded areas at the bottom of the tank...not heavy scratching, just lightly sanded to smoothness.


In the bottom photo, you can see the difference between sanded and polished. The left lower side is sanded, ready for polishing. The right side has been compounded once with the superduty compund. It will be buffed again with finer compunds to get the final gloss.

ronboskz650sr wrote: You can always redo it if you don't like the result. Live and learn, it's just paint.

Good point, Ron. Thanks. Since I don't know what type of paint it is (all I know is that it's Duplicolor) I may just start over from scratch. Probably have a better outcome that way, but that's gonna be a winter project if at all. I gotta do some ridin'!

You said it! I'm convinced Chris and I couldn't have done this bike if we didn't each have a rider. No project is worth skipping the riding, except the one where it just won't go until you fix it. If it's duplicolor, there's a pretty good chance it's lacquer, BTW. The bottom of the tank test would clear this up quickly, provided he painted the bottom of the tank.

Oh, one more tip. Paint the edges first...any edges...bottom of the tank, any contour lines with a protruding edge, etc. Let this dry for 5 minutes, then paint the whole piece with the number of coats you want. The extra paint coat keeps you from sanding through or buffing through on the edge, where the pressure is increased due to the smaller surface area.

Well guys thanks for the advice.

Took a side panel off my bike and went to Advance Auto Parts. Matched it with the Duplicolor laquer spray #T294 Toreador red.

This is what I bought:

Duplicolor lacquer 11oz can $4.94
Duplicolor clear lacquer 12oz can $4.44
3M sandblaster sponge 320 fine $3.44
3M wetodry 1500 grit 3sheets $3.18
Tax $1.28
Total $17.28

93 F, 50% humidity.

I used the whole can of red on the fairing- 3-4 coats to get it on nice.
I think I used the whole can of Lacquer too- 5-6 coats. Wow!

I was a little worried when the red went on but the clear opened it up so nice I was astounded! Nice candy coat look with a minimum of orange peel. Really it looks so nice I might even forgo the last sanding and polish. I have to wait a little and see it at night and in sunlight.

I only lightly sanded buffed scuffed the fairing for adhesion. Washed it with walmart bathroom spray and rinsed in the shower. Hung it and blow dried it.

Hung it outside in my apt stairwell. Light sweeping bursts with the spray. Really it has turned out nice for a first time effort.

I dreaded paying a professional price for what I could do myself. I figure I saved $80 and it only took about 1 1/2 hours from start to finish. I figure my time is at least worth $25/hr but that is incidental.

I did notice a slight pucker in the paint in one area. I wonder if this is due to residual oil from my fingers ( I tried not to touch it after washing) but it really isn't noticeable unless you look for it.

Really, for any bike that I own in the future that needs paint I'll go this route. With care I think I can equal or out do a bodyshop. Hell, you pay 'em to do a job and many times its gotta be done again, there's arguments and time spent dealing with these guys.

Now, I know there are real professionals and artists out there so please don't take offense at this. I'm talking about your run of the mill hacks that you think you'll save money with.

My question now is how long to wait if I do want to sand and buff? Is it 30-60 days? Doesn't sound right.

Anyhoo, I'll follow up with pics to show results ASAP.

If the humidity is low, you can sand within the hour. Don't skip the final wetsanding and buffing. You won't know what you missed if you do! Believe me, It's worth the effort. Wait at least 30 days before waxing. That may be what you're thinking of. This allows the solvents to completely evaporate. If you trap them under wax, they will cause the paint to lift. Important tip!

Looking forward to seeing photos eugeart. I have the same fairing for my bike.

I plan to paint my spare tank next weekend and went looking for paint today. I found Dupli-color automotive paint, aswell as Dupli-color truck, van, and suv paint. They both say Acrylic Lacquer on the back. Is this the right stuff?

I couldn't find high heat clear coat, except the stuff for engine parts. Is that what I should be using?

Thanks,
Joe

Joe Mc wrote: I couldn't find high heat clear coat, except the stuff for engine parts. Is that what I should be using?

Thanks,
Joe

That's the stuff. Stay away from the truck, van, SUV clear coat. It's not gas resistant...AT ALL. Don't ask how I know.