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Well I made my first real stab at adjusting the valves it didn't turn out too well, there are valves that are too loose and I think I know where I went wrong.

I read that when adjusting the valves that even though the notch may align with the T or C to mark TDC it may be for the exhaust rather than compression stroke, can that occur?

The service manual does throw up two diagrams (one for each piston side) that I believe is supposed to be the correct camshaft positions before doing adjustments. I recreated the diagram for piston 1:



The associated caption reads: "#1 piston TDC at End of Compression Stroke. Inlet valve clearances of #1 piston and exhaust valve clearances of #1 piston."

My question is: Are the dots suppose to be indicating the cam lobe positions? In other words for this one, each of the lobes should be pointing to the sides? Is that a correct assumption here or am I totally misinterpreting the diagrams? The reason why I'm asking this is because the aftermarket haynes manual seems to indicate that the intake/exhaust cam lobes for each piston should simply point up. Thanks again everyone.

When you have a given piston up on compression stroke, both valves will be shut. Now you can adjust both of the valves on that cylinder. If the piston is up and in between the exhaust and intake strokes the valve will be changing positions, therfore, it is best not to adjust at this position. I hope I did not make matters worse.

easy way: remove the spark plug, put ur thumb or finger over the hole, turn the engine over a little bit at a time untill the pressure pushes ur thumb out, then watch the timing mark it should be very close, then turn the engine over by hand to aline the timing marks, then ur safe to adjust both valves. I suggest to use a "Go-No-Go" Feeler Guage", most people have trouble getting the right feel with a regular feeler guage they either adjust the valves too loose or tight, a "Go-No-Go Feeler Guage will take the guess work outta it. Now you know more than most Motorcycle Mechanics do.

a go no go is for people like you who lack the skill to do it with an ordinary feeler gauge.

I was giving some advice thinking maybe he has limited experience in using a feeler guage and thinking maybe he wants his valves adjusted perfect, or better than what motorcycle mechanics can do, I know one motorcycle, atv mechanic that doesn't even own plastic pin plyers, you have to admit when someone works on ATV's all day and they don't own that tool it looks really bad. Im a big believer to own the right tool for the job, thats why I suggested the "go-no-go feeler guage.

if he wants his valves set"perfect" he will have to use a dial indicator.

They won't stay set perfect for long anyways, close is good enough.