stripped my engine mount!

Message

Dirtytoes · Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:24 pm

i was installing a frame slider bolt, and i guess i tightened it too much.

one i heard that noise, "chrkafo", i knew it was stripped.

from wat i understand, i have to tap/re-thread it?

do i have another choice?

also, the engine mount bolt is a 10mm, if re-threading, would i HAVE-TO go up 1mm? meaning to 11mm? or can i still keep it at 10mm?

lastly, can i still ride my bike?

slimcolo · #2 Unread post by **slimcolo** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 1:56 am

You can retap to 12mm not 11. Or you can Helicoil and stay at 10mm. SI helis are expensive, about double price of SAE.

Dirtytoes · #3 Unread post by **Dirtytoes** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:16 am

slimcolo wrote:You can retap to 12mm not 11. Or you can Helicoil and stay at 10mm. SI helis are expensive, about double price of SAE.

i found a kit, for $95!!!

http://www.jlindustrial.com/CGI/JISRIT? ... %26epcode=

how hard is it to tap/heli? is it somethin i can do myself or is it better left off to a pro?

p.s. i noticed that the threads for the engine mount are only gone in the middle of the hole....meaning there is still some thread left at the begging and the end of the hole.....u think thats enough? or should i still tap it?

slimcolo · #4 Unread post by **slimcolo** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:34 am

That seems awful high. Last time I bought one (FEB 07) it was 12mm for $39 (3/8" was $26) But this kit did not include drill bit. Helis often use odd sizes. (numbered or lettered) I would try local auto parts store. Also make sure you get right pitch. Most common are 10X1.5 and 10X1.25.

Dirtytoes · #5 Unread post by **Dirtytoes** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:38 am

i called em up and their tech said that the kit ^^^ comes with everything.

but ya, its gonna cost me over $100 after shipping and all.

i measured the bolt, and i got 1.25, gonna call the dealer to make sure. (they're not open yet)

does the length of the bolt/hole matter when tapping and using a heli spring?

can i still ride my bike while im missing 1 of the two engine mounts?

...i have no other way of getting to the auto parts store.

#6 Unread post by **Sev** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:45 am

$100 is cheap when you realize that a new engine case is $400+

Length of bolt does not matter.

You should NOT ride your bike without an engine mount. I can't believe you had to ask that. It's a great way to brake the other mount bolts and ruin your bike.

slimcolo · #7 Unread post by **slimcolo** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:49 am

Sev

Where can you get cases for $400?

Dirtytoes · #8 Unread post by **Dirtytoes** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:55 am

i was pretty sure i couldn't but idk thought i could be wrong.

as i mentioned before, i noticed that the threads for the engine mount are only gone in the middle of the hole(very small portion)....meaning there is still some thread left at the beginning and the end of the hole.....u think thats enough? or should i still tap it?

#9 Unread post by **Sev** » Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:56 am

The lower case for my bike is about $400 on bike bandit. I'm assuming that since he only stripped one bolt he only needs one section of the case which isn't all that expensive compared to a whole new engine case which is getting up into the thousands of dollars.

There is also a bike wreckers around here where you can get engine pieces for remarkably cheap. Sometimes they're a little rashed up, sometimes they're the wrong color and sometimes they're exactly what you need. A little 1211 for a gasket and away you go.

I could also have under-estimated badly, but the point remains. $100 is cheap compared to a new engine case.

Dirtytoes · Tue Jun 26, 2007 3:42 am

okay, so it turns out they have to heli-coils

industrial and aftermarket.....adn one is more expensive than the other.