Stripped nut?

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#1 Unread post by **t_bonee** » Sat May 21, 2005 1:20 pm

Hi all,

I changed my oil and filter today. I have the load in filter not the twist on. The bike: 82 Suzuki GS650GL.

The problem: I have 3 nuts on the front of the engine that come off and a plate comes off to get to the oil filter. Got it off and put the new filter in re-attached the plate then filled the oil. Fired the bike up let it run for a minute, shut it off then checked the oil level. That is when I noticed oil was leaking from the plate that holds the filter in. It never did that before. Turned the bike off and the oil stopped leaking. Turn it on, it leaks, off it stops. So I thought either I didn't tighten the nut on tight enough or the o-ring slipped out of place while I was trying to put the plate on. I checked the nut first and when I went to give it a little twist to tighten, it just started spinning. Oh no.

How can I tell if it is the nut that is stripped(I hope) or the stud that is on the engine that the nut goes on? If it is the stud, am I completely screwed?

Thanks.

Telesque · #2 Unread post by **Telesque** » Sat May 21, 2005 1:35 pm

Make sure that you've given it a couple turns to make sure the nut isn't just stripped.

If you take the nut off, you should have a pretty good idea of which is stripped from just looking at the groove (thread) of the stub and on the inside of the nut. Also make sure you've got the right nut on the right stud.

#3 Unread post by **t_bonee** » Sat May 21, 2005 1:49 pm

Telesque wrote:Make sure that you've given it a couple turns to make sure the nut isn't just stripped.

I've turned it a whole lot of times and it just keeps turning. I'll back the nut off a bit, the re-tighten it watching as it goes on and when it gets to the washer it starts to tighten up then slips and keeps turning.

Telesque wrote:If you take the nut off, you should have a pretty good idea of which is stripped from just looking at the groove (thread) of the stub and on the inside of the nut. Also make sure you've got the right nut on the right stud.

I did that and it looked like the were both ok actually! Weird. I believe all the nuts are the same. I will look at them again in the morning when I have better light. I may have to just dump all the oil again take the plate off and check the o-ring too. Hate to waste a fresh oil change but gotta do what ya gotta do.

ronboskz650sr · Sat May 21, 2005 2:06 pm

Try putting a second washer or even two and try again, if the nut looks like the threads are still pointed, not flat. If you stripped the stud in one spot, you may be able to tighten on a different spot. Use a small wrench and check the torque spec for those if they are available. It can't be much on a nut that small. Go easy. It seems more likely that the stud is okay and the nut is stripped. It could turn on normally until you put some torque on it even if the threads are stripped. If so, get a new nut. One of these should work for you. If not, stud can be removed as long as you don't snap it off first, then it gets very tough.

BuzZz · #5 Unread post by **BuzZz** » Sat May 21, 2005 9:51 pm

Right now you don't have any idea what part is buggered. You have to remove the cover and see exactly what part is stripped. You can recover the oil and re-use it as long as you keep it clean of dirt and any metal from the stripped fastener.

Gadjet · #6 Unread post by **Gadjet** » Sun May 22, 2005 6:46 am

Tom, it sounds like you have stripped the threads on the stud in one spot if you can back the nut off. Try putting a small nylon washer on with the metal ones in this order:

cover plate
metal washer
nylon washer
acorn nut

by the sounds of it, your oil leak is probably the result of the same thing that happened to me after my rebuild - the o-ring shifted when you were putting the cover back on and you have pinched it.

You'll have to remove the cover and check the condition of the o-ring to make sure that it is still useable - if not, get a new one. you can use a little bit of oil on the o-ring to help keep it in the groove on the cover when you put it back on.

torque spec for those acorn nuts is 6-8 foot pounds, but you can hand tighten them with out a torque wrench - using a socket wrench, tighten the acorn nuts until they are just tight. when you get to the point when you can't tighten the nut any more (easily) with only one or two fingers on the ratchet, they are tight enough.

Owen

#7 Unread post by **t_bonee** » Sun May 22, 2005 2:43 pm

Thanks for all the tips everyone!

I think the problem was a slightly pinched o-ring as Owen mentioned, combined with all 3 acorn nuts being stipped. I pulled the other 2 off and the threads fell out of the nuts. I checked the o-ring and it was in the groove but about a centimeter section was flat. I flipped it over and re-attached the plate with some hex nuts I got from the home depot after I finished my MSF class today(had to slip that in). They tightened down fine and the oil didn't leak when I started the bike.

I couldn't find metric acorn nuts anywhere I looked this evening so I got hex nuts. Hopefully they will do until I can find some metric acorn nuts. I am going to try the cycle shop tomorrow on my lunch hour.

The lesson I learned with this experience is to use my 1/4" drive socket when tightening the oil plate nuts instead of the 3/8" drive socket. Less torque.

Thanks again all.

Tom

p.s. something odd I noticed when I took the oil plate off. It looked like there was some silicone on the inside of it. Like some one had put a sealant on the plate when the put it on or something. Is that normal? I had to peel that stuff off the oil cover and the studs.

BuzZz · #8 Unread post by **BuzZz** » Sun May 22, 2005 5:00 pm

t_bonee wrote:Thanks for all the tips everyone!

p.s. something odd I noticed when I took the oil plate off. It looked like there was some silicone on the inside of it. Like some one had put a sealant on the plate when the put it on or something. Is that normal? I had to peel that stuff off the oil cover and the studs.

Previous owner cheaped out and didn't replace the "O Ring" when it needed it. Silicon is a poor replacement for correct sealing elements, it WILL get into your oil system.... just hope your filter catches it before your bearings do.