Shaft vs chain drive
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Shaft vs chain drive
Which style is easier to work on for a new rider with limited mechanical experience? What are the pro's and con's of each type?
The shaft drive is lower maintenance, especially when the weather turns wet.
Most of the bikes you're looking at will come with a chain drive. It's not that big a deal, the chain just needs to be cleaned and lubed periodically.
Most of the bikes you're looking at will come with a chain drive. It's not that big a deal, the chain just needs to be cleaned and lubed periodically.
'07 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
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Modern chains should be lubed regularly but don't need much adjustment. Four bikes in our family, all chain drive, the highest-mileage one (Bonne) has 16K miles, been adjusted once, and just now needs it again. Twice in 16K miles isn't bad.
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Couple of other downsides of shafties....cannot change final gearing & reduced handling performance
Some of the more high tech shafts like the BMW paralever is pretty good. Even if you scrape a peg, it doesn't get too upset. I had a K75 with a conventional shaft and if you scrape something, it turned into a pogo stick.
Modern day o-ring chains are virtually maintenance free. Given a choice, I will take a chain over a shaft everytime.
Some of the more high tech shafts like the BMW paralever is pretty good. Even if you scrape a peg, it doesn't get too upset. I had a K75 with a conventional shaft and if you scrape something, it turned into a pogo stick.
Modern day o-ring chains are virtually maintenance free. Given a choice, I will take a chain over a shaft everytime.
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That's true. The modern O-ring chain is a huge advance over the greasy chains of the old days. The rollers are pre-lubed and sealed.jstark47 wrote:Modern chains should be lubed regularly but don't need much adjustment. Four bikes in our family, all chain drive, the highest-mileage one (Bonne) has 16K miles, been adjusted once, and just now needs it again. Twice in 16K miles isn't bad.
I use a light silicone lube (no mess) every couple of weeks to keep things moving smoothly. Takes about a minute with the centerstand.
I've also noticed that they don't need much adjustment. On my old bikes with standard chains, it wasn't unusual to adjust the chain every 500 miles or so. On my current bike, I've done two adjustements in the last 19K miles.
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Re: Shaft vs chain drive
You won't find many shaft drives in bikes small/light enough to be suitable for a new rider. . .Balog wrote:Which style is easier to work on for a new rider with limited mechanical experience? What are the pro's and con's of each type?
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Re: Shaft vs chain drive
Yamaha Virago 535.Lion_Lady wrote:You won't find many shaft drives in bikes small/light enough to be suitable for a new rider. . .Balog wrote:Which style is easier to work on for a new rider with limited mechanical experience? What are the pro's and con's of each type?
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2009 BMW F650GS (wife's)
2012 Triumph Tiger 800
2018 Yamaha XT250 (wife's)
2013 Kawasaki KLX250S
2009 BMW F650GS (wife's)
2012 Triumph Tiger 800
2018 Yamaha XT250 (wife's)
2013 Kawasaki KLX250S
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Also the condition of the shaft is somewhat of a mystery while the conditon of the chain is out in full view for anyone that cares to see.Gunslinger wrote:Another vote for chains. Shafts may require less maintenance but when it does have a problem you're talking $$$.
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2006 Kawasaki KLX250S
2004 Honda CBR600RR
2002 BMW R1150R
1996 Ducati 900SS
2006 Kawasaki KLX250S
2004 Honda CBR600RR
2002 BMW R1150R
1996 Ducati 900SS