The Great Break-In Debate

[Wrider]

So I found another argument from an instructor to add to the Great Break-In Debate!
Suzuki says to keep it under 6K RPM until 1000 miles, then to do your first oil change, then to do under so and so RPM for another 1K miles.
The reasoning behind that is because Suzukis have a bypass valve in their oil filter that opens up at a certain pressure. The oil pump is engine RPM dependent, so your RPM affects oil pressure.
The thing is, the bypass valve opens up to allow more oil through your engine at approximately 6200 RPM, meaning if you exceed that RPM you've got all kinds of floating metal pieces in your oil not going through your filter and going straight through to your engine.
That's why they suggest the lower RPMs for so many miles.
And yes, I can trust the instructor, he worked for American Suzuki directly for 15 years as a technical service adviser, regional service adviser, and factory Master Technician. Laughing
He does the first oil change at 100 miles and then rides it like he stole it, personally I'd do one at 100 miles and one at 200 miles but that's just me.
Also, switching to synthetic immediately can glaze cylinders pretty easily, so use dino oil for a couple hundred miles then switch to synthetic if you want to!
Wrider

[Skier]

That's an interesting take on it! I haven't heard of that before and it makes sense.

[paul246]

All oiling systems have a bypass in them, they must for a couple of reasons.

The oil filter becomes clogged, it will go to full bypass automatically.

The oil normally bypasses the filter to some degree at normal operating levels. Yes, some oil is filtered, but oil will still bypass the filter. Eventually all the oil gets filtered at some point, but it isn't an absolute continous full flow filtering 100% of the time.

Even if it was, the machining debris left behind from manufacturing is spread throughtout the engine/tranny before any oil is added. Once the oil is added the debris is in suspension and it will move about before eventually getting filtered out. Nothing you can do except minimize the risk (low) of any damage by draining the oil frequently in the early life of the bike.

And this is why you should use dino rather than synthetic.... it is cheaper, thats all. So you don't mind dumping the oil when it isn't expensive synthetic. Otherwise there is absolutely nothing wrong with using synthetic during break-in. It WILL NOT "glaze" cylinders, prevent rings from seating, delay the break-in period, make your wheels fall off etc.

But I agree with several early oil changes and not holding back on the throttle during break-in. No high revs held for too long but rapid acceleration followed by abrubtly letting off the throttle is best.

Oh ya, this is always a hot topic for debate so feel free to wade in. I won't be back til the end of the month. Merry Christmas everyone!

[Skier]

This is more of an educational thing for me since I've never bought a new vehicle.

[High_Side]

Both a buddy and myself bought the same bike a few months apart many years ago. I had mine first and broke it in properly. He got his later and decided to forgo the break-in "old wives tale", and ride it like he intended to for the entire time that he owned the bike. My bike ran better and was faster even when we switched rides every time we tested them out. It might have been a coincidence, but for the 1000-1500km that it takes to follow the recommended break in, why not just hold back for a day or two and do it right?

[SHADOW1100T]

Riding it like you stole it after a 600 mi oil change serves a important purpus it seats the rings before the cross hatch in the cylinders is smoothed out, they will seat if you don't do this but it just takes a lot longer. With today's technology in engine building it's a toss up as to which way is right, if you can do it by the book great,,,,darn few can, I take mine on the freeway and hold the limit for a bit and then slow it down to cool it off for a day and then go for it in a reasonable manner.