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BuzZz
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Tools

#1 Unread post by BuzZz »

New bike, new gear, MSF course, insurance, diamond ring to bribe the wife so she don't freak when the new bike shows up.... we spend a large chunk-o-change on our hobby.

But how much did you spend on tools, test equipment and service manuals to keep your new love happy?

I'll start.... I got somewhere around 40-50 grand in tools and equipment.... but only about 1/16 of that is bike-specific :( . But the rest of it does come in handy for bike repair sometimes.....

What is keeping your bike in top shape worth to you?
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Skier
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#2 Unread post by Skier »

Thankfully I have already "invested" a lot of money into tools for cars, so they all happily work just fine for my motorcycle, too. :D

Only motorcycle-specific things I've had to purchase are... the Clymer repair manual for it and less than $10 in parts to make a carb balancer (which could be used to balancing the carbs if I get a 6-pack setup for my Duster... :humm: ).
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muz
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#3 Unread post by muz »

yo buzZz

like you, i have the tool accumulation disease. Getting a bike was just another excuse to buy more tools!

I think I spent about $600-900 on specific bike-related tools: 2 manuals (Clymer, Honda), bike/ATV lift, extra metric wrenches,
spare multimeter, helicoil kit, metric tap & die set, and of course a few of those one-off non-reusable $80 Honda tools like an 04-88275 swingarm wrench (&*@%$!!). oh well, it's only money, and what better use is there for it?

hey Skier, can you give me some tips on your homemade carb-balancer? got a pic, or a link?
81 CB900
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rwp
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#4 Unread post by rwp »

I've got less than $1000 in tools but one of my buddies restores cars so I have access to all I need. :D
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scan
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#5 Unread post by scan »

I'm starting to buy them as I need them. I have had tools that I accumulated over the years, working on cars and around the house. I have a full set of 3/8 in drive sockets, but most of them are English, not metric. I'm buying metric sockets as I need them and I bought a full set of metric combination wrenches. I need a torque wrench, and wouldn't mind someone's recomendation there (beam or micrometer, brand?). I think I have most of what I need though. I need to buy some feeler gauges for my future valve adjustment. I guess the answer is, I don't really have that much invested in tools.
* 2003 Kawasaki ZRX1200R *
"What good fortune for those of us in power that people do not think. " Hitler - think about that one for a minute.

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houk
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#6 Unread post by houk »

1000's of dollars I would say, prior to bikes I restored cars for many years. First generation Camaros and Firebirds(1967-69) :mrgreen:
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poppygene
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#7 Unread post by poppygene »

I have no idea how much $ I've invested in tools over the years, but I've got a pretty good little shop set up. My wife and I share a two-car garage... my half's full of tools, bikes and misc. manly things :mrgreen: , overflowing into her side of late. (Yes, Dear.)
I park my old pickup outside and keep the important things sheltered. :D
Let me get this straight... it's one down and four up, right?

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BuzZz
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#8 Unread post by BuzZz »

Hey Scanner, I like a set-able, clicking torque wrench. Easier to use and can be used in tighter spaces without having to be able to see the scale, like you do with a beam-type. Buy a wrench made by a brand name you reconginze. I like SKS, Westward, Gray, Proto, OTC, ect,... Snap-On if you feel the need to overspend.
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#9 Unread post by scan »

BuzZz wrote:Hey Scanner, I like a set-able, clicking torque wrench. Easier to use and can be used in tighter spaces without having to be able to see the scale, like you do with a beam-type. Buy a wrench made by a brand name you reconginze. I like SKS, Westward, Gray, Proto, OTC, ect,... Snap-On if you feel the need to overspend.
Thanks Buzz, I appreciate the tip. It helps quite a bit because I was leaning towards a beam style since it is what I used when I worked on cars. I never used the micrometer style (clicking).
* 2003 Kawasaki ZRX1200R *
"What good fortune for those of us in power that people do not think. " Hitler - think about that one for a minute.

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BuzZz
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#10 Unread post by BuzZz »

The micrometer type are easier to use, as you don't have to be looking at the scale to tell when you hit the correct torque. And they can be calibrated, unlike a beam style. I can't use beam types at work as I have to be able to prove calibration accuracy every 6 months on mine. Happy shopping :wink:
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