Oil Changes
- Henriettaah
- Elite
- Posts: 227
- Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 11:29 am
- Sex: Male
- Location: Sheffield, UK
Oil Changes
When doing an oil change - with a bike on which you haven't changed the oil before, and you don't know how regularly it was cared for previously - is it a good idea to 'flush' the sump out to get rid of any old dregs and bits of kakk that might be in there? What could you use? (not happy using petrol, really.) Would some cheap car oil suffice? Would you need to run the engine for a little while?
- Henriettaah
- Elite
- Posts: 227
- Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 11:29 am
- Sex: Male
- Location: Sheffield, UK
- TechTMW
- Legendary 2000
- Posts: 2045
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 12:43 pm
- Sex: Male
- Years Riding: 10
- My Motorcycle: 2005 BMW R1200GS
- Location: Alexandria VA
Hm. That's interesting. Not familiar with that model, obviously
Anyway - it's best to leave the "kakk" in there. Just change your filters and oil like ou are supposed to and everything should be fine.
Why, you ask?
I will tell you
The gunk that's in there may actually be preventing oil leakage through old or degraded seals. By cleaning it out, you may be opening up little spaces for oil to leak out. i would imagine in a two-stroke - where the crankcase is pressurized by the incoming charge of air, that this is even more important.
If you absolutely MUST clean out the case, best to take off the oilpan and do it properly (you can use soapy water, whatever if it's off the bike) and then replace the oil pan with new seals and what-have-you. Most 2-strokes split down the center of the case though ... I'm going to have to try and find a diagram of your bike to see how the engine works...

Anyway - it's best to leave the "kakk" in there. Just change your filters and oil like ou are supposed to and everything should be fine.
Why, you ask?

I will tell you

The gunk that's in there may actually be preventing oil leakage through old or degraded seals. By cleaning it out, you may be opening up little spaces for oil to leak out. i would imagine in a two-stroke - where the crankcase is pressurized by the incoming charge of air, that this is even more important.
If you absolutely MUST clean out the case, best to take off the oilpan and do it properly (you can use soapy water, whatever if it's off the bike) and then replace the oil pan with new seals and what-have-you. Most 2-strokes split down the center of the case though ... I'm going to have to try and find a diagram of your bike to see how the engine works...
“People demand freedom of speech as a compensation for the freedom of thought which they seldom use.”
- Soren Kierkegaard (19th century Danish philosopher)
- Soren Kierkegaard (19th century Danish philosopher)
-
- Regular
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 12:28 pm
- TechTMW
- Legendary 2000
- Posts: 2045
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 12:43 pm
- Sex: Male
- Years Riding: 10
- My Motorcycle: 2005 BMW R1200GS
- Location: Alexandria VA
I think Zoo is right ... Strokers are not my specialty, but from what I've looked up, the RD's had the crankcase sealed off from the gearbox.
If you don't have an owners manual w/ the bike, I think you'd be best off ringing a dealer and seeing what they recommend for the bike. If the oil is restricted to the gearbox (and/or) clutch only, they might recommend a light gear oil instead of a Motor Oil...
I don't think you will hurt it either way, but it's better to find out from the manufacturer.
If you don't have an owners manual w/ the bike, I think you'd be best off ringing a dealer and seeing what they recommend for the bike. If the oil is restricted to the gearbox (and/or) clutch only, they might recommend a light gear oil instead of a Motor Oil...
I don't think you will hurt it either way, but it's better to find out from the manufacturer.
“People demand freedom of speech as a compensation for the freedom of thought which they seldom use.”
- Soren Kierkegaard (19th century Danish philosopher)
- Soren Kierkegaard (19th century Danish philosopher)
- BuzZz
- Site Supporter - Platinum
- Posts: 4726
- Joined: Sat Mar 20, 2004 12:02 am
- Real Name: Never Used Here
- Sex: Male
- Years Riding: 47
- My Motorcycle: makes my 'nads tingle
- Location: Buttfluck Nowhere, Manitoba
The oil in your engine only lubricates the transmission and clutch. The best thing is to just take it for a good ride and get it nice and hot. Then ride home and drop the old oil right away. Fill it with your oil of choice and ride away happy. You can change the oil again soon it you like, there will always be alot of shiny material in your oil, that's wear particles from the clutch and it's normal. But you can try flushing any excessive build up out, if there is any, it's not a critical thing to worry about on your bike.
Your bike probably only holds a litre, maybe 2, and there's no filter, so it's a cheap thing to do. And it will help smooth your tranny shifting, especially with a good grade of oil. You may want to experiment with a few brands and see what works best in your bike. Just stay away from the newer 'low wear' car-type oils. If the bottle says 'contains friction modifiers', put it back and keep looking.
Your bike probably only holds a litre, maybe 2, and there's no filter, so it's a cheap thing to do. And it will help smooth your tranny shifting, especially with a good grade of oil. You may want to experiment with a few brands and see what works best in your bike. Just stay away from the newer 'low wear' car-type oils. If the bottle says 'contains friction modifiers', put it back and keep looking.
No Witnesses.... 

- Henriettaah
- Elite
- Posts: 227
- Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 11:29 am
- Sex: Male
- Location: Sheffield, UK
Yes, its just transmission oil. 550cc of it. In the manual it says 10w/30 - is this thicker or thinner than car 20/50 oil? I've got a load of car oil - not sure what grade it is, but its standard stuff that garages get in big drums. A mechanic friend would fill up my oil bottle with this stuff when I had a car which burnt a lot of oil!
Would I be safe to assume this will be ok to use? Or, at least for this initial oil change.
Also, why is the oil drain plug stuck right on top of the exhaust pipe
I had to fashion a tin foil drain channel! But, I couldn't get the plug loosened/undone with a hand spanner. If I get a socket set, will this make it easier? Also, do I need a new washer every time, or not? Is it a metal washer?
Would I be safe to assume this will be ok to use? Or, at least for this initial oil change.
Also, why is the oil drain plug stuck right on top of the exhaust pipe
