cant keep my cb360 idleing normally

Message

92civeg · #1 Unread post by **92civeg** » Thu Jan 12, 2006 9:26 am

i recently got my cb360 running and it runs pretty good.

It will idle with a little tweaking for a few minutes but then all of a sudden the rpms will just make a dash for redline out of nowhwere!..i have to stay near the bike at all times when its running just to make sure i can shut it down if this happens...im stumped.

also the clutch slips a bit above 4k rpms anyone have any experience changing one?

thanks

92civeg · #2 Unread post by **92civeg** » Thu Jan 12, 2006 10:05 am

also i want to add this..

ive only took the bike out for a test ride twice.....both times ive walked back......but today when i got back home i did some testing and noticed that my right cylinder did not have any spark but the left did.

the the first time i rode it and walked it home i just put the batt on a charger and it started up fine the next day.
It almost seems like my right coil is getting hot and cutting off when im riding it, but thats what confuses me because ive had the bike running in my garage for about an hour a day for the past 5 days and it only dies on me when im out riding it, and it runs good other than the annoying idle problem.

could the lost spark on the right cylinder be due to a low charged batt? both test rides ive gone on ive kept the bike on my street and i make it about 2 miles and it shuts down..when i try to start it though the starter cranks like normal but wont fire

please give me your input

mydlyfkryzis · Fri Jan 13, 2006 5:46 pm

The 360 will misfire with a low batt.

The charging system is 110 watts, barely enough to light the lights and charge the battery. The system nneds about 5k rpm or better to get full output. If you are drivng below this, the battery is draining rather then charging.

The voltage regulator is a weak point on this system. Check it out for operation. You should get around 15 volts at 5k RPM at the battery terminal if it is o.k. As high as 15.6. If it doesn't go above 13.6 at 5K, it may be the regulator. The magnets could also be weak in the alternator, but this is less likely.

I put a switch in parallel with my high beam. I leave it off. When the bike acts up, I turn the high beam on with the handlebar switch, but leave the headligh off. This leaves the yellow lights on, headlight off, but allows the batt to get a bit more juice.

If your bike has the off switch on the handlebar, don't use that. Not only does it turn off the light, it reduces the coils on the alternator in use from 6 to 4, reducing the output.

92civeg · #4 Unread post by **92civeg** » Sat Jan 14, 2006 2:07 am

ok ill just disconnect the headlight for now, and see how that does...but after it dies my starter will still crank like normal...and i was only riding it about 5 min on a fully charged batt then it died

thanks for the help

mydlyfkryzis · Sat Jan 14, 2006 3:12 pm

If the battery will still crank over, then it is not that.

I am guessing here, but there is an interesting problem with these bikes. The wire from the ignition to the points and back to the coils go through a grommet on the point housing. The wires are known to break internally from stress right at the grommet. The will cause an intermittant loss of spark. Checking this won't hurt.

Check your points. Loose backplate, contaminates points, etc.

It is most likely a loose connection. The bullet connectors on these bikes do harden with age. Check all the connections on the ignition circuit, especially ground wires on the coils. A bad ground can have you chasing problems forever.

92civeg · #6 Unread post by **92civeg** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:08 am

ok it turns out one of my plugs was just fouled out so i replaced them both and started it up and it ran for about 10 seconds then died and wouldnt start again...still have spark so i unscrewed both drain plugs on the carb bowls and nothing cam out if either drain tube so i giuess im going to clean the carbs but ever since the bike has been running i have had fuel filters on both lines.

92civeg · #7 Unread post by **92civeg** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:55 am

ok i took the carbs apart and they were clean..didnt find any clogged jets...so i put it all back together and first try the damn thing started up.

it ran good for about 10 minutes in the garage so i decided to try my luck on the street and i made about 2 good passes up and down the street and it was running really good (aside from the slipping clutch) but on my third try i could tell it was starting to bog and my right cylinder was cutting in and out and finally it died. So i pulled it back in the garage and checked for spark it was there so i checked fuel and it was there too..and after about 10 min of cranking and some starter fluid it started but my right clyinder was cutting in and out and it died again...so here i am and i think im done with it for today

thoughts?

mydlyfkryzis · Mon Jan 16, 2006 11:07 am

If not electrical, ie: you still have spark, then fuel must be the problem.

If the jets are clean (Did you check the little tiny one for the idle, under a brass screw?), the maybe the fuel isn't being delivered. The petcock may not be delivering fuel to the right carb, or the float valve in the right carb has an issue. Idle doesn't use a lot of fuel, driving does, so I would focus on the fuel system.

It's a pita finding a problem that isn't constant.