1st...CLUNK..wtf, neutral?!...2nd...

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rapidblue
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#11 Unread post by rapidblue »

m1a1dvr wrote:I have been having a problem with 5th to 6th.

I have that problem too. Damn workers forgot to install the sixth gear at the factory. :frusty: :laughing:
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#12 Unread post by jmillheiser »

Kal wrote:Yeah mine is pretty clunky in first to second all the time. I've noticed that if I give it too many revs then it tends to spit the gear into neutral rather than second which leads to an embarressing noise as I crank the throttle open again before having to dump it back into first.

I just try to shift south of 8,000 rpm's now. Come to think of it I usually do this within a couple of minutes of leaving work in the mornings.
CX500s are known for this. Mine would do it too. Trick for high rpm shifts on the CX is to pull the clutch in all the way and wait a split second before pulling the shifter.

my bandit always makes a solid thunk on the 1st-2nd shift. the SV650 I test rode pretty much shifted the same way as my bandit, big thunk from 1st to 2nd and the rest of the shifts had little effort.

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CNF2002
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#13 Unread post by CNF2002 »

Mine clunks loud! Its a design feature I think.
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#14 Unread post by isnowbrd »

Everyone who "clunks" and has a relatively new bike, try this. Go to your local Wal-Mart and buy Shell Rotella T 5w-40 full synthetic oil and then change your oil. Shifting should be smoother even when you first start riding. You will especially notice a huge difference if your motorcycle is really cold blooded, meaning it takes a long time to warm up.

The only downside is that the engine will run a little warmer than with regular oil. If your bike is liquid cooled there won't be any problem. I don't know about air cooled engines though.


Also, on my bike, it shifts much smoother if I don't use the clutch. :D The only way to completely get rid of the 1-2 clunk, is to buy a Yamaha.

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#15 Unread post by GrandGT »

VermilionX wrote:only happens sometimes to me when i shift to 2nd at 70-80mph.

i normally shift to 2nd around 40-50mph and experience no problem.
you mean from second? :wacko:
Last edited by GrandGT on Thu Aug 10, 2006 4:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
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#16 Unread post by cfkingfish »

Gitarjunky-

I have the exact same issue with my 06 SV650. Ill click up from first and I can even feel before I let the clutch out that it is in neutral. I wait for the RPMs to come down a bit and knock it into 2nd. This only happens when I am accelerating slowly, and not when I am even moderately getting on the throttle. It may be an SV/Suzuki thing.
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#17 Unread post by jonnythan »

isnowbrd wrote:Everyone who "clunks" and has a relatively new bike, try this. Go to your local Wal-Mart and buy Shell Rotella T 5w-40 full synthetic oil and then change your oil. Shifting should be smoother even when you first start riding. You will especially notice a huge difference if your motorcycle is really cold blooded, meaning it takes a long time to warm up.

The only downside is that the engine will run a little warmer than with regular oil. If your bike is liquid cooled there won't be any problem. I don't know about air cooled engines though.


Also, on my bike, it shifts much smoother if I don't use the clutch. :D The only way to completely get rid of the 1-2 clunk, is to buy a Yamaha.
So everybody should use Rotella T synthetic 5W-40 no matter what viscosity the owner's manual calls for?

I'd love to use Rotella T Synthetic, but my bike requires 10W-30 (20W-40 is OK for warmer climates, but it gets chilly here)
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#18 Unread post by isnowbrd »

jonnythan wrote:So everybody should use Rotella T synthetic 5W-40 no matter what viscosity the owner's manual calls for?

I'd love to use Rotella T Synthetic, but my bike requires 10W-30 (20W-40 is OK for warmer climates, but it gets chilly here)
This oil will actually work much better in cold weather than any dino oil. That’s because it’s 5 weight which basically means its much more fluid even when it's cold. That's the benefit of synthetic oil. The only reason not to use this is if your bike has high mileage. This oil actually cleans/conditions your engine of any gunk that has accumulated in it. This is fine and great for newer engines, but could cause problems on older ones that actually rely on that nasty gunk to keep things sealed up.

I live in MINNESOTA by the way. :wink:

Edit:
I forgot to mention that you SHOULD NOT use synthetic if you are breaking in a new engine.
Last edited by isnowbrd on Thu Aug 10, 2006 4:24 am, edited 1 time in total.

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#19 Unread post by jonnythan »

isnowbrd wrote:This oil will actually work much better in cold weather than any dino oil. That’s because it’s 5 weight which basically means its much more fluid even when it's cold. That's the benefit of synthetic oil. The only reason not to use this is if your bike has high mileage. This oil actually cleans/conditions your engine of any gunk that has accumulated in it. This is fine and great for newer engines, but could cause problems on older ones that actually rely on that nasty gunk to keep things sealed up.

I live in MINNESOTA by the way. :wink:
I admit I'm a newbie, but... I can't forsee me putting a non-recommended oil weight and viscosity into my bike's engine.
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#20 Unread post by VermilionX »

GrandGT wrote:
VermilionX wrote:only happens sometimes to me when i shift to 2nd at 70-80mph.

i normally shift to 2nd around 40-50mph and experience no problem.
you mean from second? :wacko:
eh?

no i meant from 1st...

i normally shift from 1st gear @ 40-50mph and no problems.

but every once in a while, when push 1st gear to about 70-80mph... it doesn't kick in to 2nd when i shift. i dunno why, im pulling the lever all teh way in but sometimes... it just won't kick in to 2nd gear.
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