Have you ridden a vstrom 650?

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jstark47
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#11 Unread post by jstark47 »

William wrote:It can't be more practical than my ST1300. I go grocery shopping on mine, and as long as it's not raining, or as long as my daughter isn't with me, I can buy everything I need.

All of this was on a stock ST1300. I would like to see anyone try that on a stock V-Strom.
2007 ST1300 - $14,399 (comes with side cases)

2007 DL1000 - $8,999 + pair of Givi E41 cases $469 = $9,468

I have nothing against the ST1300 and no issue with anyone who rides one, but I can buy a lot of "practical" for that $4,931 difference.
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#12 Unread post by William »

jstark47 wrote:
William wrote:It can't be more practical than my ST1300. I go grocery shopping on mine, and as long as it's not raining, or as long as my daughter isn't with me, I can buy everything I need.

All of this was on a stock ST1300. I would like to see anyone try that on a stock V-Strom.
2007 ST1300 - $14,399 (comes with side cases)

2007 DL1000 - $8,999 + pair of Givi E41 cases $469 = $9,468

I have nothing against the ST1300 and no issue with anyone who rides one, but I can buy a lot of "practical" for that $4,931 difference.
I never said the ST1300 was cheaper either.

However, I did get much more equipment and features factory stock for the money I paid ($14,500 in '03): Linked ABS brakes (a definate lifesaver), tipover wings (that not only are more aerodynamic, stronger, and more pleasing to the eye than crash bars or frame sliders, but also keep any part of the fairing and saddlebags from touching the ground in the event of a tipover), a bigger fairing with more protection, generous storage compartments in the fairing, huge sadlebags that are durable (and they match the bike perfectly unlike most aftermarket bags), a power adjustable windshield (can raise it just right so that it blows rain and mist off of my face shield, and over 7 inches of adjustment), a 3 position adjustable seat, more power factory stock, low maintenance shaft drive, and superior Honda engineering, reliability, and durablilty (although all of the japanese brands are really good).

You can add bags and change the windshield of the V-Strom (don't get me wrong, I like the V-Strom), and a few other items, but much of what my ST1300 has from the factory you couldn't add to a V-Strom or most other motorcycles at ANY price.

The only bike that can do pretty much everything the ST1300 can do for less money (except for the tipover wings and linked brakes) is the Yamaha FJR1300, and it's cheaper. But when I bought mine, to buy an FJR you had to put a deposit down, then wait several months for it to be delivered to the dealer. I was never able to sit on one and look at it up close until a couple of years later, when I saw a used one at a dealer. As a result, I bought the Honda.

But if Yamaha had delivered it to the dealer like everyone else does, and if I could have looked at it and sat on it before I bought it, I probably would have bought the Yamaha for less money.
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#13 Unread post by Rydr »

William wrote:
High_Side wrote:About as practical as you can get for a motorcycle
It can't be more practical than my ST1300. I go grocery shopping on mine, and as long as it's not raining, or as long as my daughter isn't with me, I can buy everything I need.

A few years ago, I was driving my 4wd in the Ocala National Forest here in Florida. As I went to ford some deep water, the radiator fan sucked in a bunch of water, causing the fan blades to be pulled into the radiator. The fan cut 10 water passages in the radiator.

Fortunately, I had trailered my ST1300 and KLR250 to my family's place there. I rode to town on my ST1300 to buy a radiator, fan, fan clutch, and coolant.

I carried the fan and radiator on the back seat and luggage rack. The box the radiator was in was as wide as the saddlebags, and stuck out past the luggage rack about 2 feet (bungee cords are wonderful). I had the fan clutch and coolant in one saddlebag. I made the trip back just fine.

All of this was on a stock ST1300. I would like to see anyone try that on a stock V-Strom.
Yea and on an earlier post you said you could ride your 1300 in the dirt William. :laughing:
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#14 Unread post by jstark47 »

William wrote:However, I did get much more equipment and features factory stock for the money I paid ($14,500 in '03):
Yes, and that all that stuff comes at a price: 180 more pounds of weight than a V-Strom. ST1300's are a tad...... errr...... porky! :mrgreen:
William wrote:more power factory stock,
More power than what? Better check those power/weight ratios:
ST1300 125hp shaft, 637 lbs
DL1000 98hp shaft, 456 lbs

Do the math. V-Strom comes out ahead by a hair.
William wrote:low maintenance shaft drive
Not all of us think shaft drive is an asset!


Just messin' wit cha! :devil: It's just personal taste. I look at a ST1300 and a little voice in my head says "Goldwing Lite." But maybe in 20 years an ST1300 will be exactly what I want.
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#15 Unread post by William »

Rydr wrote:
Yea and on an earlier post you said you could ride your 1300 in the dirt William. :laughing:
And you are either intentionally misconstruing what I meant by that, or maybe you are too dumb to know exactly what I meant by that post.

And yes, I could ride my ST1300 in dirt if I wanted to, but why would I want to? I actually have ridden down some sandy roads, and managed okay, but it was either ride, or try to turn around, or walk.

It sounds like you don't believe that a person can carry all of that on an ST1300, or that you think I lied when I said that. But you are wrong. I've done it, and the only problem I've ever had was a box of laundry detergent sliding off of the top of 3-15 pound bags of dog food while riding home from the grocery store (wasn't bungee corded tight enough).

An ST1300 is a very capable bike, and it has plenty of storage space, with a big back seat and luggage rack. If you don't think I can carry all of that, then it seems that you know not what you talk about.
1982 Suzuki GS1100GL, 2013 Victory Cross Country Tour, 2015 Kawasaki ZX-14R Ninja.

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#16 Unread post by William »

jstark47 wrote:
William wrote:However, I did get much more equipment and features factory stock for the money I paid ($14,500 in '03):
Yes, and that all that stuff comes at a price: 180 more pounds of weight than a V-Strom. ST1300's are a tad...... errr...... porky! :mrgreen:
William wrote:more power factory stock,
More power than what? Better check those power/weight ratios:
ST1300 125hp shaft, 637 lbs
DL1000 98hp shaft, 456 lbs

Do the math. V-Strom comes out ahead by a hair.
William wrote:low maintenance shaft drive
Not all of us think shaft drive is an asset!


Just messin' wit cha! :devil: It's just personal taste. I look at a ST1300 and a little voice in my head says "Goldwing Lite." But maybe in 20 years an ST1300 will be exactly what I want.
Yes, I agree the ST1300 is heavy. It typically is about 200+/- pounds heavier than a sportbike, and about 200 +/- lighter than a Goldwing. However, the ST1300, like many Hondas, carries it's weight well.

That's one reason why I would have bought an FJR1300. It weighs less. However, I couldn't buy a new one with the way Yamaha prefers to sell them.

I thought the V-Strom was chain drive?
1982 Suzuki GS1100GL, 2013 Victory Cross Country Tour, 2015 Kawasaki ZX-14R Ninja.

2006 Yamaha Wolverine 450 sport/4wd ATV, 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 550 EPS SE utility ATV

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#17 Unread post by jstark47 »

William wrote:
jstark47 wrote:
William wrote:low maintenance shaft drive
Not all of us think shaft drive is an asset!

I thought the V-Strom was chain drive?
It is. I was just making the point I prefer chain over shaft. I'll accept the adjusting & lubing for the lighter weight. And when it's time for major maintenance, chain comes out ahead - I can replace a chain myself with simple tools.
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#18 Unread post by storysunfolding »

jstark47 wrote:
William wrote:
jstark47 wrote:
William wrote:low maintenance shaft drive
Not all of us think shaft drive is an asset!

I thought the V-Strom was chain drive?
It is. I was just making the point I prefer chain over shaft. I'll accept the adjusting & lubing for the lighter weight. And when it's time for major maintenance, chain comes out ahead - I can replace a chain myself with simple tools.
I don't have too much of a preference. The shaft is nice, very little maintenance over tens of thousands of miles and while its expensive to replace, it isn't really that hard. It is harder than changing a chain granted but I change the diff oil every 3rd oil change for less than one can of chain lube cost. I grease the back whenever i change the rear wheel which takes a minute. The amount of effort maintaining a chain over the long run is more expensive at my going labor rate than having a pro change the shaft.

Then again I'm the same guy who'll regear my jeeps differentials rather than take it to a mechanic because they charge $800 labor per axle, change my oil because I can have synthetic for the same price and do my own alignment because "fudge", it's a jeep.
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#19 Unread post by William »

storysunfolding wrote:
I don't have too much of a preference. The shaft is nice, very little maintenance over tens of thousands of miles and while its expensive to replace, it isn't really that hard. It is harder than changing a chain granted but I change the diff oil every 3rd oil change for less than one can of chain lube cost. I grease the back whenever i change the rear wheel which takes a minute. The amount of effort maintaining a chain over the long run is more expensive at my going labor rate than having a pro change the shaft.

Then again I'm the same guy who'll regear my jeeps differentials rather than take it to a mechanic because they charge $800 labor per axle, change my oil because I can have synthetic for the same price and do my own alignment because "fudge", it's a jeep.


With the right lube and with the lube changed at regular intervals (every 24,000 miles on my Honda) you should NEVER need to raplace any shaft drive components, except maye a seal. And that should only happen when the bike has very high miles.

Like you said, shaft drive will be way cheaper in the long run, and less trouble too.

However, I have yet heard of anyone being able to change a shaft drive's ratio. One big advantage of chain is being able to change sprocket sizes.

I don't dislike chain drives (after all, when the chain drive Suzuki Bandit 1250S comes out, I'm planning on buying one), but shaft drive is just so much easier to live with on a daily basis.
1982 Suzuki GS1100GL, 2013 Victory Cross Country Tour, 2015 Kawasaki ZX-14R Ninja.

2006 Yamaha Wolverine 450 sport/4wd ATV, 2009 Yamaha Grizzly 550 EPS SE utility ATV

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Born, raised, and spent most of my life in Florida until I moved to Farmington, New Mexico April 2011. Yes, I'm in the wonderful Four Corners area.
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#20 Unread post by Rydr »

William wrote:
Rydr wrote:
Yea and on an earlier post you said you could ride your 1300 in the dirt William. :laughing:
And you are either intentionally misconstruing what I meant by that, or maybe you are too dumb to know exactly what I meant by that post.

And yes, I could ride my ST1300 in dirt if I wanted to, but why would I want to? I actually have ridden down some sandy roads, and managed okay, but it was either ride, or try to turn around, or walk.

It sounds like you don't believe that a person can carry all of that on an ST1300, or that you think I lied when I said that. But you are wrong. I've done it, and the only problem I've ever had was a box of laundry detergent sliding off of the top of 3-15 pound bags of dog food while riding home from the grocery store (wasn't bungee corded tight enough).

An ST1300 is a very capable bike, and it has plenty of storage space, with a big back seat and luggage rack. If you don't think I can carry all of that, then it seems that you know not what you talk about.
I never mentioned anything about how much you can or cannot carry on your ST1300. I haven't ridden one or packed one so I wouldn't presume to know.

You William, on the other hand seem to have lots of presumptions.
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