Posted on September 30, 2025 by Michael Le Pard
Section 5.5: Counter Steering, Push Steering the Easy Way
One of the most important new skills a rider learns is how to counter steer (or push steer) correctly and with confidence. Some riders struggle with the technique, some are timid, and others were never taught properly.
I prefer the term “Push Steering” rather than “Counter Steering” because it’s easier to visualize and understand.
Push Steering is the method of leaning and turning the bike at speeds over 20 km/h. While there are other ways to turn a motorcycle, push steering is the most effective and reliable. It should be practiced until it becomes second nature, because it’s a vital skill for safe riding.
Counter/Push Steering the Easy Way
The best place to practice is in a clean, empty parking lot or another safe area without traffic. Setting up cones or cans to simulate turns is a great way to build confidence.
The Most Important Thing
Motorcycles are naturally stable when upright and moving, thanks to the gyroscopic effect of the spinning front wheel. Just like a toy gyroscope resists being tipped over, a motorcycle’s front wheel resists falling when it’s rotating.
As the wheel spins, it creates stability and wants to remain upright. Push steering temporarily leans the bike left or right while you look through the turn. It takes more effort to lean the bike than to bring it back upright, so the motorcycle naturally returns to stability.
Always look as far into the turn as possible, you will go where you look. Looking down or too close ahead makes steering harder. Racers scrape pegs and exhausts at extreme lean angles, yet the bike still maintains traction and stability. That’s the power of push steering.
Quick Review
- Motorcycles are highly stable upright due to the gyroscopic effect of the front wheel.
- To push steer: push right to go right, push left to go left.
- It takes more force to lean the bike than to bring it upright, the bike almost rights itself.
- Push steering works at speeds above 20 km/h.
- It’s nearly impossible (0.001% chance) to fall from push steering unless done intentionally.
- Always look far into the turn where you want to go.
Steering Geometry: Rake and Trail
Rake is the angle between the steering head tube and a vertical line. More rake = more stability, less rake = quicker steering.
Trail is the distance between where the steering axis meets the ground and the tire’s contact patch. More trail = more stability, less trail = quicker handling.
Sportbikes have steeper forks (less rake, less trail) for sharp cornering. Cruisers have more rake and trail for straight-line stability. Wheelbase length also plays a role: longer wheelbases favor stability, shorter wheelbases favor agility.
Examples
2003 Honda VTX1800 (Cruiser)
- Rake: 32.0°
- Trail: 152 mm (6.0 in)
- Wheelbase: 67.5 in
- Designed for stability and highway cruising, not tight cornering.
2003 Honda CBR600RR (Sportbike)
- Rake: 24.0°
- Trail: 95 mm (3.7 in)
- Wheelbase: 54.7 in
- Designed for agility, quick cornering, and twisty roads.
For a simple analogy, think of a shopping cart wheel: zero rake and lots of trail. It turns instantly but has no straight-line stability.
Counterweighting: Tight Turns, Tight Skills
One of the best low-speed techniques is counterweighting. This maneuver helps you control the bike in tight spaces like parking lots, driveways, or intersections. By shifting your body weight opposite the lean of the bike, you maintain balance and precision at low speeds.
Counterweighting is simple to learn and invaluable for everyday riding. For more detailed lessons, see the Total Motorcycle Beginner’s Guide to Motorcycling.
Wrong Rights
A video shared in a riding group inspired this section. In it, a procession of fifty motorcycles makes a right turn at a T-intersection. A lead rider blocks traffic, and the group waves as they pass. What stood out wasn’t the size of the group or the bikes themselves, but the turns: nearly 40% of riders blew the corner, drifting into the far lane. Many couldn’t complete a simple 90° right turn within a 10-foot radius.
“In the same way that leaning our body into a turn can help us take it faster, leaning out of a turn can help us take it slower. We call this counterweighting.”
Excuses
Riders often dismiss low-speed maneuvers as unnecessary or too difficult. Common myths include: “my bike is too big for tight turns” or “just don’t park where you can’t get out.” These false notions can be dangerous. A poorly executed turn-from-stop (TFS) can cause accidents. Fortunately, there’s an easy, effective technique that works on any size bike: Counterweighting.
*Not to be confused with countersteering, which is for higher-speed cornering.
Counterweighting is leaning your body out of a turn at very low speeds (crawl to ~8 mph / 12 km/h). It’s the opposite of leaning in at higher speeds. This technique is invaluable for parking lots, U-turns, and tight intersections.
Counterweighting While Rolling
As you approach a tight turn:
- Lean forward at the waist to create slack in your elbows and extend your reach.
- Turn your head fully in the direction of the turn. Your bike follows your chin, look where you want to end up.
- Turn the handlebars (not lean them) at low speeds.
- Shift weight to the outside peg or brace with your outside knee against the tank. Lean your upper body out from the apex of the turn.
The more you lean your body out, the deeper the bike can lean in. With practice, you’ll reach full lock turns smoothly.
This technique is easy to learn and instantly effective. The best way to refine it is under the guidance of an MSF RiderCoach.
Counterweighting From a Standstill
To initiate a counterweight turn from a stop:
- Turn the handlebars slightly into the turn.
- Lean your upper body out and rotate your chest into the turn.
- Apply a touch of throttle before easing out the clutch to make the friction point more responsive.
- Once moving, shift weight to the outside peg or knee and continue looking through the turn.
But So-and-So Said…
Some argue against counterweighting, claiming it sacrifices ground clearance and that leaning in is better. While it’s possible to ride tight circles with extreme lean angles, that’s impractical for real-world stops and intersections. Counterweighting is simpler, safer, and effective for all riders. If you can stand on one foot, you can counterweight a motorcycle.
You Need Professional Help
Counterweighting and push steering are easy to learn and instantly effective once you’ve picked them up. But the absolute best way to refine these skills is under the trained eye of an MSF RiderCoach.
Visit MSF-USA.org to find an accredited Motorcycle Safety Foundation provider in your area. If you’re in Utah, check out Utah Rider Ed, the school I teach with.
New to motorcycling? Sign up for the Basic RiderCourse (BRC). Already riding? Consider the BRC2. Both courses teach a wide range of essential skills beyond counterweighting, helping you become a safer, more confident rider.
Related Websites
- TrackDoD Novice Group Orientation – Go Fast, Safely, An excellent read for riders looking to improve their track skills.
